⬢Bondtech pulley WITHOUT the hole for the lock screw (1x)
⬢Pulley bearing (2x)
⬢M3nS nut (2x)
⬢Pulley shaft (1x)
Note there are two types of the Bondtech pulley in the package (one with hole and without hole for the lock screw). Make sure you are using the correct one.
Before we continue with the assembly, we need to insert nuts in the Extruder-body. Take the extra time and effort to place them in properly. You won't be able to reach them later.
⬢Rotate the front part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.
⬢Rotate the rear part towards you and insert the M3 nut in the slot, all the way in.
If you can't push the nuts in, use a longer screw from the other side and tighten it until you "pull" the nut in.
⬢Turn the extruder-body like in the picture. The pins of the filament sensor must be facing up.
⬢Locate the opening for the M3 screw.
⬢Take the M3x10 screw and tighten the sensor in place. No nut is needed, the screw will self-tap into the plastic.
The sensor must be tightened completely to prevent its movement (screw head touching the board) BUT BE CAREFUL during tightening to avoid damage to the sensor.
Layers might be visible in this printed part due to the geometry. The functionality and strength remain unaffected.
⬢Bondtech pulley WITH the hole for the lock screw (1x)
In case the lock screw is sent separately, screw it in the pulley slightly. Ensure the tip of the lock screw isn't reaching to the internal part of the pulley as it might block the shaft in the next step.
Ensure you are using the correct motor, there is a label on the bottom of the casing. The reason is, each motor has different cable length.
There is a second spare lock screw in the package.
⬢Open idler fully to have direct access to the pulley.
⬢Use a piece of 1.75 mm filament (from the spool) to align the pulley with the openings for the filament (see the picture). Arrows only indicate the direction. Don't use the 3mm nylon filament!
⬢Adjust the pulley and tighten it with 1.5mm Allen key. Use reasonable force as you might damage the thread.
Once the pulley is perfectly aligned, please remove the filament.
⬢In the kit you can find two versions of the hotend:
⬢E3D V6 hotend with regular PTFE tube (old version, no marking)
⬢E3D V6 hotend with MMU2 PTFE tube (newer version, marked with a green dot)
Both versions are perfectly fine for a single material MK3. The newer version is optimized for customers planning to upgrade to the MMU2 (with the previous "regular" version, you have to change the PTFE yourself).
DON'T REMOVE the PTFE tube, it has to be in the hotend.
⬢Rotate the extruder as shown in the first picture.
⬢Take the extruder-cover and place it on the extruder body. Both printed parts must be in direct contact.
⬢Using M3x25 screws tighten both parts together. If you can't reach the nuts, use temporarily a longer screw from the spare bag (e.g. M3x30).
Ensure again the hotend is properly assembled. The surface of the heatsink (part of the hotend with cooling ribs) must be aligned with the surface of the printed parts. See the last picture.
The left hotend fan has two sides, but the side with sticker must be always facing the hotend (not visible when the fan is mounted). Otherwise, the cooling won't work properly.
The left hotend fan (Noctua) can be also in a black colour without the rubber corners, other hardware parameters are the same.
⬢Press the M3n nut in the support, all the way in. It will be barely visible. If needed use a screw from the other side to pull the nut in, then remove the screw.
WARNING: there are pins of the filament sensor on the other side of the extruder. Be careful as you might bend them during the following steps!!!
⬢Connect the support to the extruder using the M3x10 screw. Note the correct orientation in the picture.
⬢The inclined part of the support must be facing to the extruder cover.
⬢Place the nozzle-fan on the extruder and secure it using M3x10 screw.
⬢Start with the front print fan wire and place it under the cable clip.
⬢Gently push the P.I.N.D.A. sensor through the holder. If the hole for the sensor is too tight, you can open it slightly, but be very careful as you might break it!
⬢Create a loop on the probe wire, then place the wire under the cable clip.
⬢Slide the M3nS nut in the slot and tighten the probe SLIGHTLY with the M3x10 screw.
The exact position of the P.I.N.D.A. probe will be adjusted later (in Chapter 9, Preflight check), so there is no need to adjust the probe or tighten the screw fully at this point.
⬢Place the Extruder on the Y-carriage as in the first picture. Ensure the correct orientation of the printer, shorter extrusions must be facing towards you.
⬢If needed, lower the X-axis so you can see the entire X-carriage. It is needed for the next step.
⬢Take the cables from P.I.N.D.A. probe and front print fan, slide it between the lower smooth rod and belt.
⬢Take the cables from Extruder motor and left hotend fan, slide it between the lower smooth rod and belt.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to place the cables as shown in the pictures. Please double check your steps.
Cables from hotend will be placed under the lowest smooth rod. We will arrange them later.
⬢Place the Extruder near the X-carriage and check no wire is pinched. There is a slot in the X-carriage for the motor wires, see the picture. Bend the motor cable in it and leave the fan wires straight.
⬢Mount the Extruder on the X-carriage using the screws above. Tighten all screws, but not fully. We need to arrange the cables again, this time in the back.
⬢Guide the cables through slots (channels) on both sides of the Extruder. On the left side, it is Front Print fan and P.I.N.D.A. probe, on the right side Extruder motor and Left Hotend fan.
Ensure again the cables are pushed to the channels (not sticking out) and not pinched between printed parts. Now, tighten all screws, equally to prevent issues.
Starting mid of February 2018, there will be only one 50cm NYLON filament included.
⬢There are two NYLON filaments included in the kit with lengths 50 and 30 cm. Both have Ø 3 mm. For this step please use the longer one and DON'T TRIM any of them!
⬢Using the pliers cut one end of the filament to create a tip.
⬢Locate the hole for the NYLON filament. Using the smallest Allen key ensure there are no obstacles inside.
⬢Using the pliers insert and twist the NYLON filament in the slot. Hold the extruder with your second hand.
BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL as the pliers tend to slide and you can easily damage the wires!!!
⬢To check if the filament is seated properly, gently pull it with your hand. The X-axis should bend a little, but the filament must remain in the slot.
If you have issues, try to adjust the tip on the filament.
⬢Insert the M3x10 screw in the X-carriage-back. Tighten it completely.
⬢Rotate the printed part and insert the M3n nut.
⬢Tighten the M3x10 screw until the nut slides in the printed part. Note the shape of the cutout for the nut, you might need to adjust (rotate) the nut.
⬢Remove the M3x10 screw and place it back in the spare bag.
⬢Open one end of the textile sleeve and slide it on the cable bundle leading from the extruder. Don't forget to include the nylon!
⬢Leave the cables from the Hotend out for now.
⬢Length of the first wrap should be slightly longer than the cable-holder part, about 5 cm is enough.
⬢Gently twist the sleeve to make it smaller and tighter around the cables and slide the sleeve towards the extruder.
⬢Take 3 zip ties and insert them into the lower row of holes on the cable-holder.
⬢Twist the sleeve again (without twisting the cables inside) and tighten the zip ties.
IMPORTANT: Cut the remaining part of each zip tie using pliers as closest to its head as possible. Note the correct position of each zip ties's head (slightly off-centre to the left).
If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources. And if that doesn't do the trick, you can send an inquiry to [email protected] or through the button below.
