⬢Heatbed MK52 24V (1x)

⬢Power cable (1x)

⬢M3x10 screw (2x)

⬢M3/3,2/9/0,8 washer (2x)

⬢M3nN nylock nut (2x)

⬢IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to connect the power cable correctly. Before you start the assembly have a look at the pins. The one on the left with "GND" sign must be connected to the BLACK WIRE.

⬢Place the black wire above the pin with "GND" sign. Make sure you are using the rounded connector.

⬢Place the washer above the rounded cable connector.

⬢Press the M3x10 screw through all parts.

⬢Hold the screw and carefully turn the heatbed upside down.

⬢Place the M3nN nut on the top of the M3 screw and tighten it slightly.

⬢Turn the heatbed back, using pliers and Allen key tighten the screw. We need to adjust cable position in the next step, therefore do not tighten the screw too firmly.

⬢Repeat this procedure for the second (red) wire.

⬢BLACK wire must be connected to the "GND"

⬢RED wire must be connected to the "VCC"

⬢The cable cover, which will be applied later requires the connectors to be slightly inclined towards each other. Press them gently, but leave a gap between them.

Design of your heatbed might slightly differ from the last picture.

⬢Now, tighten both screws using the Allen key and the pliers.

⬢Place the bigger heatbed-cable-cover next to the heatbed. See the hole, which has to match the one on the heatbed.

⬢Now, place the cover on the heatbed and align it.

⬢Use the M3x10 and push it through the cover.

⬢Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).

⬢Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by wrapping a few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover.

⬢When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.

⬢Before you continue with wrapping the sleeve, we need to fix it in the cable cover. Please proceed to the next step.

⬢Take the smaller cover you have prepared earlier and place it like in the picture.

⬢Make sure the thermistor cable is in the middle going through a cutout in the printed part!!! Otherwise, you will pinch and possibly break the cable!!!

⬢Hold the cover and flip the heatbed back. Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.

⬢Your tightened cover should look like the last picture.

⬢Insert M3n nuts in the printed part.

⬢In case you can't press the M3n nut in, don't use excessive force. Take the M3 bolt and thread it from the opposite side of the printed part, as you tighten the screw, it will pull the nut in. Be careful not the break the printed part during tightening.

In case the power cable is fixed by screws (not soldered) the heatbed-cable-cover slightly differs from the picture, but the following assembly process is identical.

⬢Place the heatbed-cable-cover on the heatbed to cover the soldered cables and LED.

⬢Tighten the cover to the heatbed using M3x10 screw and Allen key. Be careful not to pinch (break) any wires from the heatbed!

⬢Guide the black thermistor cable next to the heatbed heater cable and wrap it few times around (see the photo).

The thermistor cable is in black or white colour, their functionality is the same.

⬢Use the textile sleeve and wrap the cables from the heatbed. Start by few centimeters of the sleeve behind the heatbed cover.

⬢When the first "wrap" is ready, slide it inside the heatbed cover. Ensure it is at least 5-6 mm.

⬢Before you continue with wrapping the sleeve, we need to fix it in the cable cover. Please proceed to the next step.

⬢Place second part of the cover on the top of the textile sleeve.

⬢Insert two screws M3x10 and tighten them, proceed with caution and tighten both screws equally.

⬢Your tightened cover should look like the last picture.

⬢Push the Y-carriage to the front and place the Heatbed behind.

⬢Locate a hole in the centre of the Y-carriage.

⬢Place one spacer on the top of the hole.

The exact position of the spacer will be adjusted in the next step.

⬢Push the Allen key through the middle hole on the Heatbed and place it above the spacer. Use the Allen key to align all parts.

⬢After the alignment insert the M3x12b(14b) screw instead.

⬢Tighten the screw just slightly.

⬢Move to the right side of the heatbed.

⬢Place another spacer with the pliers.

⬢Push the pliers between the heatbed and the Y-carriage.

⬢Use the Allen key to align the spacer.

⬢After the alignment insert the screw instead and tighten it slightly.

⬢Using pliers insert spacers and screw into the remaining holes. DON'T fully tighten the screws.

⬢After all screws are in place, tighten them in the following order:

⬢Center screw

⬢First four screws (edges)

⬢Last four screws (corners)

⬢24V power supply (1x)

⬢Power panic cable (1x)

⬢Power cable (2x)

⬢M4x10r screw with dome head (2x)

⬢M3x10 screw (2x)

The PSU is designed to work worldwide and automatically switch to the local voltage.

The cable terminals (connectors) have a different width, make sure you follow the instructions. The blue terminals won't fit the Einsy board.

⬢Turn the back of the printer towards you and locate the PSU holders. Insert M3x10 screws into them. Make only 3-4 turns, it should be enough to hold the PSU for now.

⬢Take the PSU and place it above the screws. Adjust the span of the PSU holders.

⬢Slide the PSU on the screws and tighten them, but not too firmly. We need to adjust the position in the next steps.

⬢Make sure you can slide with the PSU up and down.

The screws should be able to hold the PSU in a "vertical" position for now.

⬢Insert M4 screws in both holes in the frame.

⬢Adjust the position of the PSU, there are holes in the casing, which must align with the holes in the frame. By default the PSU is lower than needed, pull it slightly up.

⬢Tighten the M4 screws but not too firmly, wait for the next instruction.

⬢Before tightening the M4 screws, make sure the PSU is pressed against the printer (aluminium extrusion) and also in direct contact with the vertical frame.

⬢Everything aligned? Tighten the M4 screws.

⬢Now, tighten the M3 screws connecting the PSU with the extrusion.

⬢Release the screw on the FIRST (positive) slot from the left.

⬢Take the first power cable and choose the RED wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

⬢Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

⬢Release the screw on the THIRD (negative) slot from the left.

⬢Take the same cable and choose the BLACK wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

⬢Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

⬢Release the screw on the SECOND (positive) slot from the left.

⬢Take the second cable and choose the RED wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

⬢Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

⬢Release the screw on the FOURTH (negative) slot from the left.

⬢Take the same cable and choose the BLACK wire, slide it all the way in. Make sure the steel washer is above the "fork" connector.

⬢Tighten the screw firmly, but keep in mind some parts are made from plastic.

⬢Take the Power panic cable and connect it to the PSU. Both ends of the cable are the same, use any.

⬢Gently bend the Power panic cable and place it close to the power cables. Be careful as you might snap the entire connector from the board, keep that in mind until the printer is fully assembled, don't pull the cable.

⬢Guide the cables to the other side of the printer. We will fix them to the frame later on.

Don't place the cover on the PSU, wait for the next chapter.