MK4S

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>3-4 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions.</p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 330.828px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 28.375px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order week</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Order date</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 28.375px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Shipping estimate</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 33.25px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">Week 33</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 33.25px;">starts August 12, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 33.25px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Already shipped</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 24.7344px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 34</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 19, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; height: 101.203px; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="5">
<p>Currently shipping</p>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 24.7344px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 35</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts August 26, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 24.7344px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">Week 36</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 24.7344px;">starts September 2, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 37</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 9, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 30px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">Week 38</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 30px;">starts September 16, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 39</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 23, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 54px;" rowspan="2">From week 46 (starts November 11, 2024)</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 27px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">Week 40</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 27px;">starts September 30, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 41</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 7, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 84px;" rowspan="3">From week 47 (starts November 18, 2024)</td>
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<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 42</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 14, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 43</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 21, 2024</td>
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<tr style="height: 21px;">
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">Week 44</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left; height: 21px;">starts October 28, 2024</td>
<td style="width: 41.7185%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;" rowspan="2">From week 48 (starts November 25, 2024)</td>
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<tr>
<td style="width: 29.0798%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">Week 45</td>
<td style="width: 29.2017%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: left;">starts November 4, 2024</td>
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<p></p>
<p> </p>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: November 4th, 2024 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p> </p>
<p></p>
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<td style="height: 27.922px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 27.922px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure<br /></strong><em>(standalone)</em><strong><br /></strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Advanced Filtration System <br /></strong>(for Original Prusa Enclosure)</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade<br /></strong>/MK4S upgrade for versions with old xLCD</p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>3-4 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.5S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit (for MK4S/MK3.9S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4S/MK3.9S) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>2-3 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK4/MK3.9)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3.5S/MK3.5) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MMU3 assembled unit (for MK3S+) </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>In stock</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />for MK4S/MK3.9S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

Infill patterns

<div class="warning-callout">This is an&nbsp;<strong>advanced calibration</strong>, recommended only to&nbsp;<strong>experienced users</strong>.</div>
<p>The Extrusion Multiplier allows the fine-tuning of the extrusion flow rate - simply described as&nbsp;<strong>how much filament comes out of the nozzle</strong>. In other words, the&nbsp;<strong>Extrusion Multiplier</strong>&nbsp;setting in PrusaSlicer and the&nbsp;<strong>Flow rate</strong>&nbsp;setting in printer firmware are two ways to adjust the same thing, however, adjusting one of those two settings will not influence the value of the other.</p>
<p><strong>This procedure is not necessary with a new printer coming from the factory</strong>, but rather applies for specific applications and filaments. The ideal value is different for every type of material and every color. It can even differ from spool to spool. Bear this in mind if you change type and brand of filament often or use cheap no-name brands.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Total flow rate = <strong>Flow multiplier</strong> in firmware (M221) x <strong>Extrusion multiplier</strong> in PrusaSlicer. For those interested in diving deeper, PrusaSlicer uses the same <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Flow math as Slic3r</a>.</div>
<h3><strong>How to spot an issue</strong></h3>
<p>This calibration is used to fix two common problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Overextrusion</strong> - Too much material is extruded (flow is too high). It causes scarring of bottom layers and unnecessary material buildup on top layers.</li>
<li><strong>Minor under extrusion</strong>&nbsp;- Not enough material is extruded (flow is too low). It causes small gaps that appear between layer lines or perimeters.</li>
</ul>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-600x282.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-800x376.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-300x141.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-768x361.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/under-ok-over-1536x721.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="852" height="400"></p>
<p><strong>Overextrusion</strong> is a common problem with many filament brands. It's especially problematic when you're trying to glue two parts of the model. <strong>If the top layer is over extruded, you'll end up with an uneven surface that will prevent a seamless connection between the two pieces.</strong></p>
<h3><strong>How to do the calibration</strong></h3>
<p>In PrusaSlicer, navigate to <span class="key">Filament Settings</span> and look for Extrusion Multiplier. The default setting (for PLA) is 1, this value represents a percentage, 1 = 100%, 0.95 = 95% etc. Usually, the adjusted values can be between 0.9 and 1.1. To adjust it, simply rewrite the value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 200px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/image-2019-1-15-12-55-6.png" data-hd-height="200px"></p>
<p>In the printer menu, during a print, go to the Tune menu and then choose Flow. Again, the usual values can range between 90 and 110, although that does not mean you can't go above or below that.</p>
<h4>Which method should I use?</h4>
<p>There are two methods you can use to calibrate the Extrusion Multiplier, and we'll cover both of them in this article:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Precise Method</strong>&nbsp; -&nbsp; using precision tools such as calipers or micrometers.</li>
<li><strong>Visual Method&nbsp;</strong>&nbsp;- an easy method based on observing the visual properties of your models.</li>
</ul>
<p>The choice of the method depends entirely on your preferences; in the end, both yield similar results. Even the visual method will enable you to have perfectly fitting parts with smooth &amp; flat top layers.</p>
<h4>Precise Method</h4>
<div class="note-callout">Please note that the following guide is based on <strong>default</strong> PrusaSlicer 0.4 nozzle profiles, with a layer height of 0.1mm - 0.2mm. This means that:<br />
- Nozzle size = 0.4<br />
- Extrusion width =&nbsp;0.45<br />
- Basic materials (PLA, ABS, PETG) Extrusion Multiplier = 1<br />
<strong>If you wish to calibrate the printer with a bigger/smaller nozzle or layer heights above 0.2, then you will need to adjust these values as well.</strong></div>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/cube-40-40-40.zip">Precision Method Cube STL</a>.</li>
<li>Slice it using the Vase Mode and your most-often used layer height and print it. You can find Vase mode (Print Settings →&nbsp; Layers and perimeters →&nbsp; Spiral vase).</li>
<li>Make three or more measurements in the middle of each wall and calculate the overall average thickness.</li>
<li>Calculate the extrusion multiplier using the following formula: <strong>Extrusion multiplier = (Extrusion width (0.45) / Average measured wall thickness)</strong>.</li>
<li>Adjust the Extrusion Multiplier in Filament Settings → Filament</li>
<li>Re-print the cube with new settings and go back to step 3 if necessary.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 220px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/micrometer-small-jpg.JPG" height="400" data-hd-height="220px"></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Please note that cheap digital calipers may not be accurate enough to make reliable measurements of a single perimeter wall.</div>
<h4>Visual Method</h4>
<p>This method does not require any tools, only your sight. The point is to make sure your top layers are <strong>smooth</strong>, <strong>shiny,</strong> and without <strong>scarring or filament buildup</strong> near the perimeters.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-600x374.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-800x499.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-300x187.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-768x479.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/destiky6-1536x958.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="641" height="400"></p>
<ol>
<li>Download the <a href="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/visual-method-cube.zip">Visual Method Cube.stl</a></li>
<li>Slice it using the default Prusa PLA presets at 0.20mm layer height and print it.</li>
<li>Inspect the top layer of your cube visually and with the tip of the finger.</li>
<li>If the top is under extruded or not smooth, then re-adjust the Extrusion Multiplier accordingly by 1-2%.</li>
<li>Repeat the steps above as long as needed.</li>
</ol>
<p>If there is&nbsp;<strong>too much material</strong>&nbsp;near the perimeters,&nbsp;<strong>decrease</strong>&nbsp;the Extrusion Multiplier value.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 390px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/buildu.jpg" data-hd-height="390px" data-hd-align="left"></p>
<p>If there are&nbsp;<strong>visible gaps</strong>&nbsp;between layer lines,&nbsp;<strong>increase</strong> the Extrusion Multiplier value. (Microscopic gaps near the perimeters are OK.)</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 430px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/gaps.jpg" data-hd-height="430px" data-hd-align="left"></p>


Extrusion multiplier calibration

<p>Stringing or oozing, also known as "hairy prints", is the name given for when small strings of filament are left on a printed model. This usually happens when the filament keeps flowing from the nozzle while the extruder is moving to another object. You can see this as a marginal line of filament left between the objects.</p>
<p>This issue is caused by <strong>very high printing temperatures and/or using incorrect retraction settings</strong>. This can be solved by changing a couple of settings in PrusaSlicer and checking your hardware.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-600x383.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-800x511.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-300x192.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-768x490.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-1536x981.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b-2048x1308.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/90014ff5fc80d10b.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="255"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/b1b72c32290b8c00.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="267"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Stringing from material left on the nozzle</h3>
<p>If you print for a long time from a single type of filament, such as PET-G, the filament can create a thin layer in the nozzle. This can cause stringing as the strands of the filament stick to the surface of the print. Therefore, thoroughly clean the nozzle before printing and make sure that any dirt or remnants of previous filaments are removed from the nozzle.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">We highly recommend using our official (factory default) preset settings in PrusaSlicer. However, if you are printing with your own settings, make sure that you have the retraction settings configured correctly.</div>
<h3>PrusaSlicer settings</h3>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-600x359.jpeg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-800x479.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-300x179.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-768x459.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted-1536x919.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/432d664dd4b64d78_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="700" height="419"></p>
<p>You should start by checking a parameter known as Retraction. What does retraction do? When the extruder has finished printing one section/object of your g-code, the filament is pulled back into the nozzle. Once the extruder moves to the next location the printing process continues – the filament is pushed back out and it starts extruding from the nozzle again. Retraction settings can be found in PrusaSlicer in <em>Printer Settings -&gt; Extruder 1</em>.</p>
<p>Flexible filaments usually need longer retractions, because the material stretches while being pulled back to the nozzle. Flexible materials are a special case and can need a lot of tweaking and tuning.</p>
<p><strong>The retraction settings are:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Retraction length:</strong> Amount that the filament is pulled back when a retraction is triggered. <strong>On the MK2.5/S and MK3/S/+, the retraction length should be a maximum of 2 mm.</strong></li>
</ul>
<div class="tip-callout">Due to the Bowden extruder, the retraction length of the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+ presets are much longer (default 3.2 mm).</div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Lift z:</strong> lifts the extruder during movement. Having this setting lower will improve stringing. Note that disabling this feature may cause the nozzle to hit the printed part.<strong><br /></strong></li>
<li><strong>Retraction Speed:</strong> Extruder motor speed on retraction. A higher value improves stringing, but if it is too high it may skip steps in the motor.</li>
<li><strong>Minimum travel after retraction:</strong> Amount of move that will trigger a retraction (mm). The preset number in PrusaSlicer is 1 mm, which is a low amount. Having this number higher will get lower printing times, but increase oozing and stringing.</li>
<li><strong>Retract on layer change:</strong> Activates retraction when the layer changes to the next one. It is recommended to leave this option on.</li>
<li><strong>Wipe while retracting:</strong> Moves the nozzle (wipe) while the retraction is happening. It is recommended to leave this option on.</li>
<li><strong>Retract amount before wiping:</strong> This option does a quick retract before doing the wiping movement. More suitable for the Original Prusa MINI/MINI+.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Other settings that affect retraction:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Only retract when crossing perimeters:</strong> <em>(Print settings -&gt; Infill -&gt; Advanced):</em> Disables retraction when the travel path does not exceed the upper layer's perimeter. Any oozing that happens will be within the walls and should be invisible.</li>
<li><strong>Avoid crossing perimeters:</strong> <em>(Print settings -&gt; Layers and perimeters -&gt; Quality):</em> Optimize travel moves in order to minimize the crossing of perimeters. This will lower the stringing amount, especially in the MINI/MINI+.</li>
<li><strong><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sequential-printing_124589">Sequential printing</a>:</strong> <em>(Print settings -&gt; Output options -&gt; Sequential printing):</em> Printing each object individually has a smaller chance of causing stringing between the parts. When using this feature, PrusaSlicer will warn you of any possibility of the extruder colliding with an already printed part, but follow the print closely.</li>
<li><strong>Nozzle temperature:</strong> <em>(Filament settings -&gt; Filament -&gt; Nozzle):</em> Lowering the temperature decreases the occurrence of strings. Try decreasing the nozzle temperature by 5 – 10°C and check whether there’s less stringing.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Filament</h3>
<p>Try using a different spool than the one that is causing the stringing. The filament might have gathered moisture, which will cause a lot of stringing.</p>
<h3>Hotend</h3>
<p>Stringing in the nozzle might be caused by a heat dissipation issue in the nozzle. Try <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">re-applying thermal paste</a> on the threads between the heatbreak and the heatsink.</p>
<p>If you have recently changed any component in the hotend, it is also possible that some individual parts are not in place. Go over the assembly of the hotend and check for any parts that may be different from the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104">instructions</a>.</p>
<h3>Enough settings, pass me my <strong>heat-gun!</strong></h3>
<p>If you don’t feel like tweaking any of the settings, well, then there is an alternative. You can get rid of the strings with a heat gun (or often with a lighter – but be very careful). Set your heat-gun to around 200 °C and aim at the strings for one or two seconds. This will melt the strings, and the printed object should remain undamaged. Do not leave the heat source on the printed model for longer than one or two seconds, as this may deform the part.</p>


Stringing and oozing

<div><strong><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="float: right;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="225" height="225"></strong></div>
<h3>Basic info</h3>
<div><strong>PETG</strong> is one of the most easily printable materials, it is <strong>inexpensive and suitable for beginners</strong>. Relatively high tenacity and temperature resistance make it <strong>suitable for printing technical parts</strong> (for example parts of our printers).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended nozzle temperature:</strong> 230 °C for the first layer, 240 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Recommended bed temperature:</strong> 85 °C for the first layer, 90 °C for the other layers</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><strong>Heatbed:</strong> Using powder-coated TXT or satin sheet is highly recommended. Printing on smooth PEI surface might damage the sheet.</div>
<h3>Description</h3>
<div>
<p><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament-petg/"><strong data-stringify-type="bold">PETG</strong></a> (Polyethylene Terephthalate modified with Glycol) is a commonly used technical material, popular among 3D printer users for its <strong>low price and good printability</strong>. It’s tenacious, with good temperature resistance; PETG is most commonly used for printing various mechanical parts, holders, clamps, and waterproof parts (thanks to great layer adhesion).</p>
<p>PETG has a glossy surface, adheres greatly to a print sheet, and <strong>does not shrink or warp</strong> (it has very little thermal expansion), therefore it’s suitable for printing large models. Plus, its high tenacity and flexibility often <strong>prevent it from breaking.</strong> Due to good temperature resistance, PETG parts are suitable both for interior and most exterior use (with temperatures below 80 °C). <strong>Parts of our printers are made of PETG!</strong></p>
<p>The letter G in PETG means that it’s modified with glycol during the manufacturing process. Glycol makes PET less brittle, easier to print, and more transparent for translucent prints. Of course, you can print also with PET filaments without glycol. However, printing with only PET is challenging and does not offer any advantage whatsoever.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Even though PETG in itself may be considered <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/food-safe-fdm-printing_112313">food-safe</a>, it consists of layers, as every 3D print, in which bacteria can grow over time. You can prevent this by applying a <strong>food-safe(epoxy) coating.</strong> Also, a stainless-steel nozzle should be used for if food is the intended application.</div>
<p>Although <strong>PETG</strong> is frequently used in <strong>food industry</strong> and is considered <strong>food-safe</strong>, we do not recommend it (or any other filament) for printing dishes or other stuff that comes into direct contact with food. The main reason is tiny print layer surface grooves that can support numerous bacterial colonies. But if you still want 3D printed dishes, we suggest <strong>applying a special layer</strong> that seals the surface (food-safe coating) and printing with a clean steel nozzle.</p>
<p>Some of the manufacturers <strong>enrich PETG with various additives</strong> and sell these materials under different names. For example, Spoolworks EDGE by E3D is modified PET/Copolyester Blend with additives. The goal is to acquire better visual qualities, surface and layer adhesion, etc.</p>
<p>To compare supported material properties, see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">material table.</a></p>
</div>
<table class="striped">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>
<p>Pros</p>
</th>
<th>
<p>Cons</p>
</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Easy to print</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Possibility of stringing</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Good layer adhesion</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Poor bridging and overhangs</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Tough and durable</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Not great for printing detailed parts</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<p>✔ Low warping</p>
</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Bonds strongly to the print surface</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ High temperature-resistance</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Soluble in dangerous chemicals</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>✔ Water and humidity resistant</td>
<td>
<p>✖ Supports are hard to remove</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Best use</h3>
<p>PETG is used universally but is especially suitable for mechanical parts for both indoor and outdoor use. We use PETG to print parts for our printers! Plastic bottles are also made from this kind of material.</p>
<h3>Tips for successful printing</h3>
<p><strong>Temperature settings and cooling</strong></p>
<p>Unlike PLA, <strong>PETG requires a heated bed (85 °C).</strong> Its bridging- and overhang-behavior is usually worse, plus it is prone to stringing. Stringing can be moderated with higher retractions and lower nozzle temperature, but we suggest <strong>using the PrusaSlicer profiles that should work fine.</strong> It’s important to <strong>cool the PETG print</strong> - this helps to keep the model detailed and prevents stringing and oozing. But if you want the model to be as tough as possible, try to turn off the print fan. Higher filament temperature improves merging between layers which leads to better mechanical resistance. Otherwise, we recommend printing the first few layers with the print fan off to prevent deformation, then with the fan running at half its power.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong!</div>
<p><strong>Print surface preparation</strong></p>
<p>Make sure the print surface is clean, as described in <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">our dedicated article</a>. It is advisable to use one of the <strong>powder-coated print sheets. Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet</strong> as the adhesion may be too strong! If you decide to use the smooth PEI sheet anyway, apply a glue stick on it before printing.</p>
<p><strong>Adding more perimeters for more solid parts</strong></p>
<p>If you want to print truly solid parts, <strong>try to increase the number of perimeters</strong> instead of adding more infill.</p>
<h3>Postprocessing</h3>
<p>PETG can be easily sanded both dry and wet.</p>
<p><strong>Dissolving PETG</strong></p>
<p><strong>Dissolving and smoothing PETG</strong> is possible only in a laboratory by skilled lab workers using <strong>dangerous chemicals</strong> (Dichloromethane).</p>
<h3>Sample prints</h3>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 954px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-jet-black-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>MMU (Multi-Material Unit)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronics cover and other printer parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-2-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg-3-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Ukulele</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Various mechanical parts</em></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 300px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-1-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 300px; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusament-petg-urban-grey-1kg-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="800" height="800"></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Electronic parts</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.805%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><em>Boxes and organizers</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


PETG

Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4S/MK3.9S upgrade

Original Prusa MK4/MK3.9 to MK4S/MK3.9S upgrade

Original Prusa MK4S kit assembly

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

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All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

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FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

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In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

Using the printer

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Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

Troubleshooting

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Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

3rd party accessories & Other projects

About PrusaSlicer

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Advanced features

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

1. Introduction

1a. Parts check

2. Frame assembly

2. Upgrading the Y-axis

3. X-axis & X-carriage assembly

3. Upgrading the xLCD

1b. Printer disassembly

1c. Parts preparation

4. Upgrading the Nextruder

4. Z-axis assembly

5. Nextruder assembly

4B. Upgrading the Nextruder (MMU3)

6. xLCD assembly

5. Upgrading the connectivity

7. Y-carriage & Heatbed assembly

6. Preflight check

Manual changelog

8. Preflight check

<p>The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a removable double-sided flexible spring-steel sheet, designed specifically for easy removal of printed objects from the print surface.</p>
<p><strong>We offer four different types of sheets</strong>, with different strengths and attributes.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Smooth</strong> sheet, provides excellent adhesion with most filaments and geometry. So much in fact, that some filaments, like TPU and PETG, will adhere <strong>too much</strong> and <strong>can damage</strong> the sheet when removed.</li>
<li>Powder-coated<strong> textured </strong>sheet, aimed at production environments using PETG and other high-adhesion filaments.</li>
<li><strong>Satin </strong>sheet, which in both texture and properties lies between the smooth and the textured sheet.</li>
<li><strong>PA Nylon</strong> sheet, designed specifically for printing polyamides (Nylon) since their adhesion to standard PEI sheets is generally very poor.</li>
</ul>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 36px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/spring-steel-sheet-smooth-peiKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/powder-coated-spring-steel-sheetKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheetKB-768x768.jpg 768w" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/e8db7237d7f0c777fdb53e4d3391cb09.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flexible sheets guidepost HT90 REVIEW" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18px;">
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550">Smooth sheet</a></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534">Textured sheet</a></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">Satin sheet</a></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; height: 18px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/special-pa-nylon-steel-sheet_341570">PA nylon sheet</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="200" height="201" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="200" height="201" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-398x400.jpg 398w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-598x600.jpg 598w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/satin_underside2-768x771.jpg 768w" alt="" width="200" height="201" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/90117a81801f652c78ee2b7276235464.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flexible sheets guidepost HT90 REVIEW" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>HT90 steel sheets</h3>
<p>The Prusa Pro HT90 can use three types of print sheets. <strong>Textured</strong>, <strong>Satin</strong>, and <strong>PA nylon</strong>. </p>
<h3><strong>General information</strong></h3>
<p>The removable spring steel sheet is held in place by a number of magnets glued to the heatbed, from the bottom side. On MK-series, MINI/+, XL, and HT90, the top of the heatbed has two pins that align perfectly with a <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>notch in the spring steel sheet</strong></span>. </p>
<p><em>Before putting the steel sheet on the heatbed, make sure the heatbed is clean and free of any filament debris.</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/prusuki/prusuki-images/aligning-pins.jpg" /></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/f738b8d0c00b39bb2b6a421f47aeb65e.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flexible sheets guidepost HT90 REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="note-callout">On MK-series and MINI/+, please ignore the two holes in the steel sheet that are on the opposite side of the notch. Those are from the manufacturing process and are not for aligning the sheet on the bed.</div>
<h3>Steel sheet profiles (MK2/S, MK2.5/S, MK3/S/+, MK3.5/S, MINI/+)</h3>
<p>For printers <strong>not</strong> equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>, each sheet needs a different Live-Z value, as they have slightly different thicknesses. If you are using multiple different sheets, the value for each sheet can be stored in the Steel sheet profiles. For more information see the article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>. </p>
<h3>Removing prints</h3>
<p>To remove the printed object from the print surface, always wait until the steel sheet<strong> cools down to room temperature.</strong> Then you can take it off by <strong>bending the sheet</strong> inwards and outwards, but you may need to use a spatula to avoid damage to the sheet. <strong>For materials like PETG, ASA, ABS, and PC Blend, and/or prints with a large first layer surface, a separation layer in the form of gluestick may be required.</strong></p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-600x137.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-800x183.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-300x69.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-768x176.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Screenshot-bendsheet3-1536x351.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="800" height="183" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div>
<p>In case you are still having trouble removing the model even after letting it cool down or the surface got damaged during the removal (a piece of the surface was ripped off or cracked), you might be using a filament type that is not suitable for being printed on this kind of print sheet or the surface was not prepared correctly. Please see our <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/materials">Material table</a> for filament and print sheet compatibility and surface preparation.</p>
<p>If you are using a spatula to help with the model removal, make sure to avoid damage to the sheet surface. Bend the sheet slightly and insert the spatula under the model whenever possible, instead of digging under the model on a flat surface.</p>
<p>For a stubborn print that refuses to be released from the print surface, you can try to re-heat the heatbed for a few minutes (to the original print temperature) and then let it cool down again. This can sometimes help with the removal of the prints that are too stuck to the print surface.</p>
</div>
<div class="warning-callout">Consumable parts, such as print sheets (satin, smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings will diminish over time. Unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship, cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks, or any other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.</div>
<h3>Differences between the sheets</h3>
<p>We have done a lot of testing with filament material and sheet combinations and compiled our results. To easily see the sheet and material compatibility, and how to prepare your sheet for any filament type, please <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">see our Material table</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/a637dec71b0ce40ab17e1667d4e1c15b.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flexible sheets guidepost HT90 REVIEW" alt="" width="750" height="326" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>*Values in this screenshot may not be up to date.</em></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Different sheet types have different thicknesses. On printers <strong>not</strong> equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>, changing the sheet requires you to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> or make use of different <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>, when switching between them.</div>
<div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 24.8%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Smooth_close_up_scaled-1536x1536.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/TXT_close_up_scaled-1536x1536.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Satin_close_up_scaled-1536x1536.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 24.8%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/90117a81801f652c78ee2b7276235464.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Flexible sheets guidepost HT90 REVIEW" alt="" width="200" height="200" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed <br />object on the</em></p>
<p><em>Smooth sheet</em></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed <br />object on the</em></p>
<p><em>Textured sheet</em></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed<br />object on the</em></p>
<p><em>Satin sheet</em></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 24.8%; text-align: center;">
<p><em>Close-up of a printed <br />object on the</em></p>
<p><em>PA nylon sheet</em></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<h4>Smooth PEI sheet</h4>
<p>Both sides of this sheet are covered by a sticker made from smoothed PEI plastic. This is the same time-tested surface type that was used on the older MK2S printers. Prints with a small area touching the print surface or with sharp corners are less likely to detach when printing on a smooth spring steel sheet. Some users also like the smooth and shiny bottom side of their prints. <strong>For all details and considerations of the Smooth sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/smooth-steel-sheet_196550">Smooth Steel Sheet</a>.</strong></p>
<h4>Powder-coated textured sheet</h4>
<p>The surface of this sheet is covered with a special polymer (Ultem) to ensure perfect adhesion. The powder-coated steel sheets are better for printing objects with materials such as PETG, CPE, or Flexfill (TPU) which tend to adhere too much to a smooth surface, but can be more easily removed from the textured one. <strong>For all details and considerations of the Textured sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/textured-steel-sheet_196534">Textured steel sheet</a>.</strong></p>
<h4>Satin sheet</h4>
<p>The Satin sheet further expands our line-up of print sheets. Its powder-coated surface with a lightly textured matte finish offers an optimal level of adhesion and is fully compatible with a wide range of common and less-common filaments. <strong>For all details and considerations of the Satin sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">Satin steel sheet</a>.</strong></p>
<h4>PA nylon sheet</h4>
<p>The special PA nylon sheet is made for printing polyamides (Nylon) since their adhesion to standard PEI sheets is generally very poor. The sheet comes with a matt texture, similar to the satin steel sheet with a PEI surface. The sheet is compatible with most polyamides and PETG, other materials may have insufficient adhesion and should be printed on our standard PEI sheets. <strong>For all details and considerations of the PA nylon sheet, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/special-pa-nylon-steel-sheet_341570">PA nylon sheet</a></strong>.</p>
<h3>Prints don’t stick</h3>
<p>If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it as in the guidelines for your steel sheet type, and if the first layer height is set up perfectly, yet your print still does not adhere reliably to the print surface, check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</p>


Flexible steel sheets (guidepost)

<p>Prusa printers are well known for being very silent, even in the standard mode. But actually, our printers also offer an option for even quieter operation. In the instructions below you will learn how to set your printer to <strong>stealth mode</strong>. </p>
<h3>MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+</h3>
<p>Starting from firmware versions 6.0.0 and above, two print modes are offered on the Original MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, and MINI/+. This is set by toggling the <strong>Stealth Mode</strong>. In idle mode, navigate to <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings</em>. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is also possible to switch between Normal and Stealth mode during a print. In this case, navigate to <em>LCD menu -&gt; Tune</em>. In this case, the selected mode will be activated once several G-code commands in the buffer (printer memory) are processed. </div>
<p>Once the stealth mode is enabled, the firmware sets a limit to acceleration, feedrate, and jerk values. Setting a cap on these parameters will lower the noise. The trade-off is an increased print time. </p>
<div style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/0e4957cf8cdacd8329aba7f8e48da512.bmp" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Power modes (REVIEW)" alt="" width="450" height="300" loading="lazy" /><em>Screenshot from the Original Prusa MK4</em></div>
<p></p>
<h3>MK3 and MK3S/+</h3>
<h4>Normal vs. Stealth mode</h4>
<p>MK3 series printers offer two print modes. <strong>Normal mode</strong> is required for the detection of lost steps (shifted layers), while still being quieter than the silent mode on MK2/S. There is also the <strong>Stealth mode,</strong> which utilizes Trinamic StealthChop technology. This makes the printer almost inaudible where the print cooling fan is the noisiest part of the printer.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Stealth mode</strong> does not provide Crash detection (lost steps cannot be detected).</div>
<p><strong>These modes can be switched depending on the situation:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>When idle:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; [Normal / Stealth mode]</em></p>
</li>
<li>During a print:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Tune -&gt; [Normal / Stealth mode]</em></p>
</li>
</ol>
<h3>MK2/S, MK2.5 and MK2.5S</h3>
<h4>Power vs. Silent mode</h4>
<p><strong>The silent mode</strong> uses less current and makes the printer quieter but less powerful. <strong>Hi-power mode</strong> is great for very large (over 200 gram) prints. It is also recommended for newly assembled kits before you fine-tune everything. If you experience lost steps (shifted layers) or if you’re manually adjusting the speed of printing to more than 100%, use <strong>Hi-power mode</strong>.</p>
<h4>Auto power mode</h4>
<p>There is also an <strong>Auto Power Mode</strong>. This is basically a compromise between silent and hi-power modes. The stepper currents depend on the Z height. The current starts low when the Z height is minimal. And it increases slowly as the object is printed. </p>
<p><strong>These modes can be changed in two ways:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>When idle:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; [Hi-power mode / Silent mode / Auto power mode]</em></p>
</li>
<li>During a print:
<p><em>LCD Menu -&gt; Tune -&gt; [Hi-power mode / Silent mode / Auto power mode]</em></p>
</li>
</ol>

Power-modes

<p>The printer can fully recover from a complete loss of power without the need for batteries or a UPS. A special sensor detects mains voltage, and in case of an interruption, it immediately shuts down the heatbed and extruder heating, leaving enough power in the capacitors to store the position and lift the print head away from the print. In case of a very short power failure, the printer will attempt to continue printing immediately without waiting for user interaction.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">If you want to test the power panic on MK3/S/+, check <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/testing-safety-features-mk3-mk3s_2079">Testing safety features (MK3/MK3S)</a>.</div>
<div class="warning-callout">Keep in mind that power panic doesn't work if you use the on/off switch on the PSU</div>
<h3>Resuming the print</h3>
<p>When the power comes back, the printer will give you an option to continue the print. Keep in mind that during extended periods without power, the bed will cool down and the printed object can detach itself from the sheet plate. So, before resuming the process, check the following: </p>
<ol>
<li>Make sure that all objects are still attached to the steel sheet plate.</li>
<li>Follow the instructions on the LCD screen and resume the print.</li>
<li>Stay with the printer for about 10 minutes and make sure that the printing process continues without any problems.</li>
</ol>


Power Panic

Buddy firmware-specific G-code commands

<p>The Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, and XL are equipped with a <strong>loadcell</strong>. This component incorporated in the hotend heatsink detects if the nozzle is close enough to the steel sheet for printing.</p>
<p>The only adjustment needed for the <strong>loadcell </strong>is during the selftest. After that, the first layer calibration is always done automatically during the <strong>mesh bed leveling</strong>. This avoids any damage that would be caused by the nozzle digging into the steel sheet.</p>
<p>The manual first layer calibration (Live Z adjust) and the steel sheet profiles are not necessary with the <strong>loadcell</strong>, as the values are checked automatically before each print.</p>
<h3>Testing the loadcell</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not manipulate or touch the printer unless the instructions on the printer screen prompt you to do so.</div>
<p>During the selftest, the loadcell will be tested: the printer will show the instructions for testing it.</p>
<p>Alternatively, the loadcell testing can be initiated in <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Calibration &amp; Tests -&gt; Loadcell Test</em>.</p>
<p>During the test, you will be asked to tap the nozzle at a specific time, and a progress bar on top of the screen will be filled. If the bar is not filled or the printer shows any errors, please contact our <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/customer-support_2287">customer support</a>.</p>


Loadcell (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, XL)

<p>The Original Prusa magnetic heatbed is designed to hold a removable double-sided flexible spring-steel sheet, designed specifically for easy removal of printed objects from the print surface.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 413.355px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 394.688px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 394.688px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/e8db7237d7f0c777fdb53e4d3391cb09.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Special PA Nylon steel sheet" alt="" width="1995" height="1995" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; height: 394.688px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/90117a81801f652c78ee2b7276235464.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Special PA Nylon steel sheet" alt="" width="1995" height="1995" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 18.6667px;">
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center; height: 18.6667px;"><em>Special PA Nylon steel sheet (color may differ from yours)</em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%; text-align: center; height: 18.6667px;"><em>The underside of a printed object</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The special PA Nylon sheet is made for printing polyamides (Nylon) since their adhesion to standard PEI sheets is generally very poor. The sheet comes with a matt texture, similar to the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/satin-steel-sheet_196526">satin</a> steel sheet with a PEI surface. The sheet is compatible with most polyamides and PETG, other materials may have insufficient adhesion and should be printed on our standard PEI sheets.</p>
<h3>Main attributes</h3>
<ul>
<li>Compatible with many types of polyamide</li>
<li>Made for printing without using a glue stick and other means of increasing adhesion</li>
<li>Slightly textured surface</li>
<li>Double-sided! Both sides can be used repeatedly</li>
<li>Easy maintenance and good adhesion qualities</li>
</ul>
<h3>Considerations</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Never clean the special PA Nylon sheet with acetone, IPA (isopropyl alcohol), or other alcohol-based solvents (window cleaners, Windex, etc.)! This will damage the surface.</strong></li>
<li>For easy print removal, wash the print surface with water before every printing.</li>
<li>Check the proper first layer height! If the Live Z value is too low and the first layer is too squeezed, print removal may be difficult and may damage the sheet.</li>
<li>PA Nylon sheet should be cleaned only with water and degreased with dish-washing soap!</li>
<li>Some types of polyamide may be prone to warping and require using brim or are suitable only for printing small parts and models with sparse infill.</li>
<li>Keep the sheet as clean as possible! Any grease stain will decrease adhesion.</li>
<li>Live Z value needs to be readjusted if you switch sheets. See <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955">Steel sheet profiles</a>.</li>
<li>Not scratch-resistant!!! Do not use metal spatulas with sharp edges to remove the prints. Be extremely careful when removing the print.</li>
<li>Small PETG prints may require a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/skirt-and-brim_133969#brim">Brim</a>.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Consumable parts, such as print sheets (satin, smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings will diminish over time. Unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship, cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks, or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty.</div>
<h3>Maintenance</h3>
<ul>
<li>Wash the print surface before every print with clean water (use a wet cloth or sponge…), then dry it. Greasy stains, such as fingerprints, can be cleaned with water with dishwashing soap.</li>
<li>Never use anything to clean PA Nylon steel sheet but water (with a drop of dish-washing soap)! Unlike the PEI sheets, the PA Nylon sheet must not come in contact with alcohol-based solvents (IPA, Ethyl alcohol, etc.), Acetone, window cleaners, 3DLAC, etc. Using any unrecommended solvents leads to a shorter sheet lifespan and risk of damaging the surface!</li>
<li>Some types of paper towels may leave traces on the sheet (fiber pieces). </li>
</ul>
<h3>Filaments</h3>
<p>We have done a lot of testing and compiled our results for you to use. To easily see how to prepare your sheet for any filament type, please <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials">see our Material table</a>.</p>
<h3>Prints don’t stick</h3>
<p>If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in water and dish-washing soap, the first layer height is set properly and the print won’t stick, check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that polyamides in general tend to warp more than other materials. Sometimes warping may be so strong that larger models (or with dense infill) detach from the surface even over the best surface adhesion. If you experience such strong warping, we recommend using another type of PA for selected print - for example, our Prusament PA11 Carbon Fiber shows almost no warping at all. You can find more in the articles about polyamide and warping.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">PA Nylon print sheet has a special surface layer with smooth texture and matt looks. The surface layer is partially translucent and may show a specific “texture” of lengthwise or diagonal lines, or varying color shades. These color variations are characteristic for material under the topmost layer and don’t affect sheet performance.</div>
<h3>Notes</h3>
<p><em>As a result of the temperatures to which the plate is exposed during printing, its surface gradually becomes glossier or may develop smaller, duller areas. </em><em>This visual change does not adversely affect the printing properties and is not considered a reason for a warranty claim.</em></p>
<p><em>Note that with the Original Prusa MK4 and XL, the PA Nylon sheet wear is especially noticeable at the Z probing points, where the nozzle leaves visible marks on the surface. This does not affect the surface adhesion and overall printability.</em></p>
<p><em>A new batch of the PA Nylon sheet will be released during July / August 2024. The new version will get a slightly rougher surface texture. This change will not affect the print sheet's functional properties. You can examine the changes in the gallery below.</em></p>
<div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 97.6716%; height: 243.062px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 157.729px;">
<td style="width: 11.8041%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/odraz-VI.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/odraz-VI-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/odraz-VI-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/odraz-VI-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/odraz-VI-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/odraz-VI.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="2520" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 12.0553%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/fosfat-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="2520" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 10.1716%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/skrabanec-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="2520" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 10.4228%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/ruzne-odstiny-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2485" height="2485" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 10.046%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/dirka-1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/dirka-1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/dirka-1-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/dirka-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/dirka-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/dirka-1.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1448" height="1448" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 10.1716%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/pruhy-redo-2.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="2521" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 9.41817%; height: 157.729px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II-400x400.jpg 400w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II-600x600.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II-300x300.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II-2048x2048.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/RED-ghostovani-po-tisku-II.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="2520" height="2521" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 6.40435%;"> <img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/0d53378d6f01b311a2bafd34e715e086.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Special PA Nylon steel sheet" alt="" width="2506" height="2506" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 9.41817%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/9edb4eb35b757df0dfa64ce0bec4ab9c.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Special PA Nylon steel sheet" alt="" width="2506" height="2506" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 10.046%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/e9e5203e8a630569ceb1be0ac9d72aa1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Special PA Nylon steel sheet" alt="" width="2506" height="2506" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 85.3333px;">
<td style="width: 11.8041%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em>Example of a glossier surface</em></td>
<td style="width: 12.0553%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em>Diagonal lines</em></td>
<td style="width: 10.1716%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em>Minor scratch</em></td>
<td style="width: 10.4228%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em>Varying color shades</em></td>
<td style="width: 10.046%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em>Scratched hole</em></td>
<td style="width: 10.1716%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em>Horizontal lines</em></td>
<td style="width: 9.41817%; text-align: center; height: 85.3333px;"><em> Example of a glossier surface</em></td>
<td style="width: 6.40435%; text-align: center;"><em>Old texture (bottom) vs new texture (top)</em></td>
<td style="width: 9.41817%; text-align: center;"><em>Old texture (left) vs new texture (right)</em></td>
<td style="width: 10.046%; text-align: center;"><em>Visible marks at Z-probing points</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>


Special PA Nylon steel sheet

<p>The <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/gpio-hackerboard-set/">GPIO module</a> (General Purpose Input Output) is an additional, optional <strong>PCB</strong> that can be connected to the <strong>Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S,</strong> or <strong>MK3.5/S</strong>.</p>
<div class="tip-callout"><strong>IMPORTANT:</strong> To utilize the full potential of the GPIO board <strong>you need firmware 6.2.0</strong>-alpha1 or newer. <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Visit the GitHub to download the latest firmware</a>. </div>
<p>The module provides expanded functionality by allowing the control of external devices through connections to the GPIO board pins, which can operate in either <strong>INPUT</strong> or <strong>OUTPUT</strong> mode. This versatility opens up a wide range of potential use cases.</p>
<p><strong>Share and discuss your projects</strong> with the other members of the Prusa Community on our official forum. <a href="https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mk4s-add-ons/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">We have created a dedicated GPIO section</a>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/28f864a2b54defbc119da88837674ce1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="GPIO Module" alt="" width="500" height="500" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Use-case ideas</h3>
<p>The module can control a camera shutter at a precise moment, making it ideal for creating visually perfect time-lapses, where each picture is captured at the exact same point in time.</p>
<p>Beyond controlling a camera shutter, the module can be used for various other applications. For example, it can trigger external lighting to illuminate the print area at specific stages of the printing process, ensuring optimal lighting conditions for quality checks or photography. Additionally, it can be configured to activate cooling fans or other peripheral devices, such as extractors or alarms, based on custom G-Code execution during prints, helping maintain optimal operating conditions and improving the safety and efficiency of the 3D printing environment.</p>
<p>Another powerful use case is the integration of a macro keyboard, where each keypress can trigger the execution of specific G-Code commands. This setup allows for rapid manual control of the printer's functions, such as starting or pausing a print, adjusting temperatures, or moving the print head to an exact position. The ability to trigger custom actions with a simple keypress can significantly streamline workflows, making the GPIO expansion module a versatile and indispensable tool for those looking to fully customize and optimize their 3D printing setup.</p>
<h3>Safety first! </h3>
<p>While the ability to trigger G-Code via GPIO inputs adds great flexibility, it also comes with limitations and potential risks. Improper use or poorly timed G-Code commands can interfere with the printing process, leading to print failures or even damage to the printer. It’s crucial to thoroughly test any custom G-Code setups in a controlled environment before deploying them in actual print jobs to avoid unintended consequences.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Additionally, we recommend that only <strong>experienced users with a solid understanding of electronics and G-Code manipulation</strong> utilize this GPIO module, as improper connections or configurations can result in <strong>hardware damage</strong> or <strong>safety hazards</strong>.</div>
<h3>Schematics </h3>
<p>The schematics are open source, and available on our page <strong><a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/open-source-at-prusa-research_236812/">Open Source at Prusa Research</a></strong>. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/f005e77865c8c7fa72c7d7e6f900fa6b.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="GPIO Module (review)" alt="" width="750" height="439" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>How to install the GPIO board</h3>
<ol>
<li>Ensure the printer is cooled down to room temperature, and switch it off.</li>
<li>Open the xBuddy box cover by removing four M3x6 screws.<br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/3d30e2f5990a2480e5e5ffcdef24d570_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></li>
<li>Connect the GPIO cable to the <span style="color: #843fa1;"><strong>I2C port</strong></span>.<br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/8e7c21267f34c452d1998075dd521f60_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="GPIO Module" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></li>
<li>Close the xBuddy box cover.</li>
<li>Ensure that the GPIO does not touch any metal parts of the xBuddy box or its cover. </li>
<li>Enjoy your project!</li>
</ol>
<h3>Pins</h3>
<p>The board features 8 pins, numbered 0-7. Pins 0-3 can be used as output, and pins 4-7 can function as either input or output. Each pin is of the open-drain type when used as an output, meaning it is controlled by a transistor that connects the pin to the ground (0 V) when active. When the pin is inactive, it remains "floating", which means it is not connected to any specific voltage, but due to internal pull-up resistors, the voltage on the pin can hover around 3.3 V. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is possible to solder <strong>external pull-up resistors</strong> to the JP pins. This changes the behavior described above. For more details on that, see the <strong>pull-up resistors paragraph</strong> below. </div>
<p>The behavior of the pins in an open-drain state when used as outputs can be explained as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Pin set to 0 (LOW)</strong>: The pin is <strong>turned off</strong> and is in a "floating" state, which means it is <strong>not connected</strong> <strong>to any specific voltage</strong>. In this state, the voltage on the pin can fluctuate and is not well-defined unless stabilized by a pull-up resistor.</li>
</ul>
<p>This "floating" state may cause the pin to pick up random electrical noise or interference, leading to unintended behavior if not properly managed. </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Pin set to 1 (HIGH)</strong>: The pin is turned on and connected to the ground (0 V), causing the voltage on the pin to drop to 0 V. This state is clear and does not lead to any ambiguity in signal detection.</li>
</ul>
<p>When the pins are used as inputs, they can detect the voltage level applied to them. The input state is influenced by the presence of pull-up resistors, which can help ensure a consistently high voltage (3.3 V) when no other voltage source is applied.</p>
<h3>Pull-up resistors</h3>
<p>The board allows the connection of external pull-up resistors via solder jumpers labeled JP4 to JP7. These solder jumpers are located in the center of the board and are connected to the corresponding pins:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>JP4</strong> is connected to <strong>Pin 4</strong></li>
<li><strong>JP5</strong> is connected to <strong>Pin 5</strong></li>
<li><strong>JP6</strong> is connected to <strong>Pin 6</strong></li>
<li><strong>JP7</strong> is connected to <strong>Pin 7</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>Solder jumpers JP7 to JP4 can be used to connect integrated pull-up resistors, which ensures that the pins remain at a high voltage (3.3 V) when not actively driven low by an external source or by the pin's output state. These pull-up resistors have a value of 10K ohms, which is a standard value to provide stable voltage without excessive current draw. If no resistor is connected to the solder jumper, the pin may remain in a floating state, potentially leading to unstable behavior. JP stands for "jumper," and if no resistor is connected, it creates no resistance.</p>
<p>For less experienced users, it's important to understand that open-drain outputs do not inherently produce a high voltage (3.3 V) but rather allow a connection to ground (0 V). Pull-up resistors are necessary to ensure that the pin remains at a high voltage when turned off or when used as an input. If not properly managed, a "floating" voltage can cause the pin to pick up electrical noise, leading to unwanted switching or system instability.</p>
<h3>Setting GPIO via Custom G-Code</h3>
<h4>General Information</h4>
<p>The following is a sequence of custom G-Code commands used for controlling the GPIO board. This allows you to configure output states, read input states, and manage other advanced settings on the board through G-Code instructions, integrating them seamlessly with your 3D printer’s workflow.</p>
<h4>Pin control via G-Code</h4>
<p>To control the output pins on the GPIO board, you can use the following G-Code commands:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Set Pin Mode (Output or Input)</strong><code class="codesample-inline"><br />M262 P&lt;base 10&gt; B&lt;base 10&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>P&lt;0-7&gt;: Select the pin number to configure (from 0 to 7).</li>
<li>B&lt;0 or 1&gt;: Set the pin mode.
<ul>
<li>0 - configures the pin as an output</li>
<li>1 - configures it as an input.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M262 P0 B0 - Configures pin 0 as an output pin.<br /> </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Write state to an Output Pin</strong><br /><code class="codesample-inline">M264 P&lt;base 10&gt; B&lt;0 or 1&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>P&lt;0-7&gt;: Select the pin number to write to (from 0 to 7).</li>
<li>B&lt;0 or 1&gt;: Write 0 to set the pin to LOW, or 1 to set the pin to HIGH.</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M264 P0 B1 - Sets output pin 0 to HIGH (1).<br /> </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Toggle state of Output Pin<br /></strong><code class="codesample-inline">M265 P&lt;base 10&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>P&lt;0-7&gt;: Select the pin number to toggle (from 0 to 7).</li>
<li>This command flips the current state of the selected pin.</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M265 P0 - Toggles pin 0.<br /> </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Advanced Register Setup (For Experienced Users)</strong><br /><code class="codesample-inline">M267 R&lt;1-3&gt; B&lt;0-255&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>R&lt;1-3&gt;: Select the register to configure:
<ul>
<li>1: Output Register.</li>
<li>2: Polarity Register.</li>
<li>3: Configuration Register.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>B&lt;0-255&gt;: Set the value to be written to the selected register.</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M267 R3 B255 - Configures the Configuration Register with the value 255 (all pins set to inputs).</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<p>To read the state of pins or set up configurations, use the following G-Code commands:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Read state of Pin</strong><br /><code class="codesample-inline">M263 P&lt;base 10&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>P&lt;0-7&gt;: Select the pin number to read from (from 0 to 7).</li>
<li>The returned value will indicate whether the pin is HIGH (1) or LOW (0).</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M263 P6 - Reads the state of pin 6 (returns 32 for HIGH or 0 for LOW).<br /> </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Read Entire Input Register</strong><br /><code class="codesample-inline">M261 A&lt;slave device address base 10&gt; B&lt;number of bytes&gt; S&lt;style&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>This command reads the entire input register, returning a number in given "style" format that represents the states of all input pins (from 0 to 7).</li>
<li>Possible states are:
<ul>
<li>1 - HEX DUMP</li>
<li>2 - signed two byte integer, base 10 (int16)</li>
<li>3 - unsigned byte, base 10 (uint8)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>device address is always 32</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M261 A32 B1 S3 - reads the entire input register and returns it as unsigned byte base 10<br /> </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Read IO expander's register (For Experienced Users)</strong><br /><code class="codesample-inline">M268 R&lt;base 10&gt;</code>
<ul>
<li>this reads the whole byte of the given register at once</li>
<li>R&lt;0-3&gt;:
<ul>
<li>0 - Input</li>
<li>1 - Output</li>
<li>2 - Polarity</li>
<li>3 - Config</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Example</strong>: M268 R3 - Reads Config register</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<h3>How to Set Up G-code for Input Pins</h3>
<p>To configure input pins for your setup, each input pin is automatically mapped to a specific G-code file located on the USB drive. These files must be stored in a <strong>folder named "macros"</strong> and follow a strict naming convention: the file name must be in the format</p>
<p><code class="codesample-inline">btn_{pin_number}.gcode</code></p>
<p>where <strong>{pin_number}</strong> corresponds to the specific GPIO pin you are using. <strong>All letters in the file names must be lowercase.</strong></p>
<div class="note-callout">
<h4>For example:</h4>
<ul>
<li>if you are using <strong>pin 7</strong>, the corresponding G-code file must be named <strong>btn_7.gcode</strong> and placed in the "macros" folder.</li>
<li>similarly, for <strong>pin 4</strong>, the file should be named <strong>btn_4.gcode</strong></li>
</ul>
</div>
<p>The system supports 8 input pins on the GPIO board, and each pin can be mapped to a unique G-code file in this way.</p>
<p>When a G-code file is triggered via its corresponding input pin, the G-code stored in that file is immediately injected into the ongoing process. Please note that there is a size limit for each G-code file, which <strong>must not exceed 1024 bytes</strong>.</p>
<h3>Advanced Input Control and Macro Triggering</h3>
<p>When an input pin is configured using M262 and set to 1 (input mode), the state of the pin is <strong>periodically checked every 0.5 seconds</strong>.</p>
<p>If a button connected to the pin is pressed (pin state goes LOW), it triggers a macro button. For example, a button on pin 7 can automatically execute a macro stored in the file macros/btn_7.gcode on a USB drive. The macro is injected into the print sequence, with a size limit of 1024 bytes.</p>
<h4>Persistent Memory</h4>
<p>Configuration of the pins and their states are stored in EEPROM, ensuring that pin settings (output/input modes, polarity, and states) are preserved even after a power cycle.<br />Changes made via M262, M264, M267, or any other relevant G-Code will update the EEPROM, so the settings are persistent.</p>
<h4>Edge Cases</h4>
<p>For pins 0-3, which lack internal pull-up resistors, configuring them as input without additional external circuitry may result in an inverted logic state. This can inadvertently trigger macro execution due to their default idle state being LOW (0).</p>
<p>You can invert the logic of input pins using the Polarity Register (M267 R2 B&lt;value&gt;). This feature is particularly useful for pins that do not have pull-up resistors (pins 0-3), which default to an idle state of 0 (LOW) and might trigger unwanted actions when left unconfigured.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">All pins (0-7) support polarity inversion equally. This means you can invert the logic for any pin, which is configured as input.</div>
<p>The primary difference in behavior between the pins comes from the fact that pins 4-7 can utilize internal pull-up resistors, which hold them at a HIGH state (3.3 V) when not actively driven LOW. However, these pull-up resistors are only active if the corresponding solder jumpers (JP4 to JP7) are connected. If these jumpers are not soldered, pins 4-7 behave similarly to pins 0-3, defaulting to a floating state.</p>
<p>When using input pins to trigger macros, the system is designed to detect a LOW state as indicating a pressed button. For pins without active pull-up resistors, this default LOW state can inadvertently trigger macros unless polarity inversion is used.</p>
<h4>Warnings and Limitations</h4>
<p>When configuring or writing to pins, the system outputs a warning via the serial port if there is a mismatch between the intended operation (e.g., trying to write to an input pin). It is essential to correctly configure pins using M262 to avoid such conflicts.</p>
<h3>Custom G-Code in Prusa Slicer</h3>
<p>Insert the code in the exact spots where it is needed, after/before another particular G-Code command. In the example screenshot, the <span style="color: #843fa1;"><strong>custom G-Code that controls the GPIO board</strong></span> is set through PrusaSlicer and is positioned after each layer change. However, it can be positioned at any point. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/75fecadbb4a8220bb7baa59612bcc292_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="GPIO Module" alt="" width="700" height="248" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Examples</h3>
<h4>Sample Connection of GPIO Module to Addon Controller (Fan Filter and LED)</h4>
<p>In the image attached below, we can see the connection between the GPIO module and the addon controller responsible for controlling the Original Prusa Enclosure's fan filter and LED. </p>
<div class="note-callout">We are currently developing a jack-to-molex cable solution for connection between the GPIO board and the EnclosureBasic board. This will provide an easy and user-friendly way to manage the enclosure’s controls.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/0ee77917f8586993975e8413b0acf744.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="GPIO Module" alt="Image of example setup for enclosure" width="700" height="344" loading="lazy" /></p>


GPIO Module

<p>The components installed on your printer rely on firmware configuration. To facilitate the installation of components sourced from third-party vendors, we introduced an <strong>experimental settings menu</strong>. Since different hardware has different specifications, the firmware can adjust the defining parameters of some components.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>The experimental menu is for advanced users.</strong> You should not change these firmware parameters for a printer with stock parts! It can cause bad performance or even damage the printer and its parts.</div>
<p>To activate the experimental menu, navigate to <em>LCD menu -&gt; Settings</em> and scroll down to <em>Hardware</em> <strong>without selecting it with a short-press</strong> (left picture). Instead, <strong>hold the LCD encoder for 2-3 seconds</strong>, and the Experimental menu will appear (right image).</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="text-align: center;">
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/0455f69eae76e927abff08a7f5c39c6d.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Experimental menu (MINI/MINI+) REVIEW" alt="" width="245" height="321" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/4ba4f539fa059a1dac24e4444a559693.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Experimental menu (MINI/MINI+) REVIEW" alt="" width="243" height="321" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; text-align: center;"><em>Long-press this option. <br /></em></td>
<td style="width: 48.8442%; text-align: center;"><em>After holding 2-3 seconds this menu will appear.</em></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/27e796b4cfe7a51464b12da6d1297e29.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Experimental menu (MK4/S, MK3.9, MK3.5, XL, MINI/+)" alt="" width="500" height="333" loading="lazy" /><br /><em>Experimental settings on an Original Prusa XL. </em></p>
<p><strong>Save and return:</strong> Saves the current values and returns to the previous screen.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Z-axis length:</strong> In this menu, the Z-axis length can be adjusted according to the size of your extruder.</li>
<li><strong>Reset Z-length:</strong> resets the Z-axis length to default/stock.</li>
<li><strong>Extruder step / Extruder steps per unit:</strong> set the steps appropriate for your extruder.</li>
<li><strong>Reset steps per unit:</strong> resets Extruder steps to default/stock.</li>
<li><strong>Extruder direction:</strong> shows two options for the extruder motor direction. The default/stock is "Prusa", and the other is "Wrong".</li>
<li><strong>Reset directions:</strong> resets extruder direction to default/stock.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Save and return</h4>
<p>After the correct settings are changed, select <strong>Save and return</strong>. The printer will ask you whether you want to save the changes and reboot the printer. On reboot, your printer will have the new settings for your custom extruder. This will ensure that even with adjusted parameters the printer can still perform First Layer Calibration, Live Adjust Z, and print.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/ecd4d988a64d71cb25ba38de189b7ae3.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Experimental menu (MINI/MINI+) REVIEW" alt="" width="302" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="warning-callout">Adjusting settings in the experimental menu is at the owner's risk. Prusa Research takes no responsibility for the possible issues or damage to the printer. However, we are ready to help you bring the printer back to the factory setup.</div>


Experimental settings (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL, MINI/+)

<p>The Input Shaper functionality on your <strong>Original Prusa</strong> <strong>MK4/S, MK3.9/S or MK3.5/S</strong> can be calibrated using an optional <strong>accelerometer</strong>. The accelerometer assembly consists of a small PCB enclosed in a printed cover, which connects to the printer. Please note that using the accelerometer requires partial disassembly of the printer.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">The input shaper is <strong>pre-calibrated from factory</strong>, so this calibration is usually unnecessary on a stock printer.  However, if you've made any modifications to the printer hardware, it may be beneficial to re-calibrate the settings using the accelerometer.</div>
<div>
<div class="warning-callout">Note that the use of the accelerometer is intended for experienced users only!</div>
</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/4400f58aa0eb647811379a93be0f7e03.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>On <strong>MK4</strong> and <strong>MK3.9</strong>, the accelerometer is connected directly to the dedicated port on the xBuddy board. (orange arrow in the picture below)</p>
<p>On <strong>MK4S and MK3.9S</strong>, you can install a short jumper cable into the xBuddy and then use the connector on the rear of the printer, as seen in the pictures below.</p>
<p>For <strong>MK3.5 or MK3.5S</strong>, please visit the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-use-accelerometer-mk3-5-s_735910">dedicated guide</a>.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
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<td style="width: 48.835784%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/09d32430be930d2fd80d13cc529e69c1_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Accelerometer (MK4/S, MK3.9/S)" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.835784%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/0873a84a986270650f857b587abf87cc.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200" loading="lazy" /></td>
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</tbody>
</table>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Accelerometer connection on MK4S and MK3.9S</em></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">The accelerometer is used to calibrate the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/input-shaper-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_451816">input shaper</a> parameters. You can launch the calibration from the <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Input Shaper -&gt; Calibration</em>. </p>
<h3>X-axis</h3>
<div class="warning-callout">Before proceeding with the next steps, ensure the printer is fully cooled down. </div>
<p>On MK3.9 or MK4, open the <em>fan-door</em> completely before the procedure. <span style="color: #e67e23;" data-darkreader-inline-color=""><strong>Remove</strong></span> the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/nextruder-silicone-sock-xl-mk4-mk3-9_641415">silicone sock</a>, if installed. Identify the <span style="color: #236fa1;" data-darkreader-inline-color=""><strong>part of the accelerometer</strong></span> that is in the shape of the heater block. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
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<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/8ecc88a9388ee58fdbee5819ba4ec87a_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Accelerometer (MK4, MK4S)" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/0d248ccfcc9a8d8a648a593a9d7d0505_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Accelerometer (MK4, MK4S)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
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<p>Fit the accelerometer to the heater block, by pushing it from the bottom of the hotend. <strong>If there is any resistance, do not attempt to push the accelerometer harder, as excessive force might bend the heatbreak</strong>. </p>
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<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/4379e7d498770dd90192078444d57bc1.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/56927c39b981a0285a43406ddbfcaf01.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Y-axis</h3>
<p>Identify the <span style="color: #843fa1;" data-darkreader-inline-color=""><strong>part of the accelerometer that protrudes from the rest</strong></span>. On the front side of the Y-axis, place the protrusion between the steel sheet and the heatbed. </p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
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<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/f60bbbc6eb3e6beb0dc77e721dc3f006_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Accelerometer (MK4, MK4S)" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/0a2ddd30f55e7337ebe29660eeb5b6b7.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Results</h3>
<p>The results shown on the printer's display at the end of the calibration indicate the optimal <strong>input shaping type</strong> and <strong>frequency </strong>found with the calibration. </p>


Accelerometer (MK4/S, MK3.9/S)

<p>The Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9, and XL are equipped with a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/loadcell-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_401253">loadcell</a>. Thanks to this component, starting from firmware 6.0.0, the printer is able to detect whether the filament is stuck and not moving, for example when the nozzle is clogged. </p>
<p>In case this is detected, the print pauses and the printer shows the message: "<strong>Stuck filament detected. The filament seems to be stuck, please unload it from nextruder and load it again</strong>". </p>
<p>Once the <strong>unload </strong>button is pressed, the printer unloads the filament. After this, the printer prompts filament loading, and resumes the print. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is important to note that detecting stuck filament is possible only inside the Nextruder, as pressure builds up from the nozzle to the upper part of the Nextruder. However, if your filament is tangled on the spool, there will be no internal pressure, just outside tension, which the loadcell won't be able to recognize.</div>
<div>Stuck filament detection won't be possible on MK3.5 and MINI/MINI+ as they aren't equipped with the loadcell sensor. </div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/e884e31f8ae9e52017bacbeb8fcd544e.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Stuck filament detection #13101 (MK4) #21101 (MK3.9)" alt="" width="500" height="333" loading="lazy" /><em>Screenshot from the Original Prusa MK4</em></p>


Stuck filament detection #26101 (MK4S) #13101 (MK4) #21101 (MK3.9) #17108 (XL)

<p>When printing multiple objects within the same print, it is possible that one or more objects might not have an optimal finish or get loose from the plate, while at the same time, other objects in the same print are printing perfectly. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/c2193a0039974fb72dce8b070eba2a47.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Cancel Object (MK4, XL)" alt="" width="700" height="467" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p>The <strong>Cancel Object</strong> function makes it possible to stop printing an object directly from the printer menu, while the print is in progress. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">The feature is available starting from PrusaSlicer 2.7.0, combined with Firmware 5.1.0 or above for Original Prusa MK4 and Original Prusa XL and Firmware 5.1.2 or above for Original Prusa MINI/+.</div>
<p>During a running print, navigate to <em>Tune menu -&gt; Cancel Object</em> and select an object that you wish to stop printing. The print will continue running, though any Gcode commands related to the canceled object will be ignored. </p>
<p>The easiest way to stop printing an object is to use the <em>Cancel Current</em> function, located in the same submenu. Once the nozzle reaches the object you want to cancel, you can select this option. </p>
<p>It is also possible to resume the printing of a canceled object through the same submenu. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/e46ffb2df1649101584d29601a7c44d5.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Cancel Object (MK4, XL)" alt="" width="480" height="320" loading="lazy" /></p>


Cancel Object (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, XL, MINI/+)

<p>Starting from firmware 6.0.0, the Original Prusa printer can use touch to navigate the xLCD. Note that some functions will still need the knob, such as setting the target temperature manually or while moving with any of the axes.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Make sure you have the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads">latest firmware</a> installed.</div>
<h3>Enabling the touch function</h3>
<p>The touch feature needs to be manually enabled. For that, go into the printer menu to <em>Settings -&gt; User interface -&gt; Touch</em>.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/039cf2af3cbd380d00c1595c88937408.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Touch screen (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5)" alt="" width="500" height="333" loading="lazy" /><em> Screenshot from the Original Prusa MK4</em></p>
<h3>Touch Sig Workaround</h3>
<p>If there is a lot of delay between touching the screen and the action you selected, or multiple touches generate just one action, activate the function Touch Sig Workaround under the Touch in <em>Settings -&gt; User interface</em>.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/caa5cf6e195fcfa1a79928cdf87bbad7.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Touch screen (MK4, MK3.9, MK3.5)" alt="" width="500" height="333" loading="lazy" /><em>Screenshot from the Original Prusa MK4</em></p>


Touch screen (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)

<p>The Original Prusa MK4S includes an Ethernet port (RJ45), and a WiFi module. </p>
<h3>Connecting to Ethernet</h3>
<p>Connect a LAN cable to the Ethernet port. Navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network</em>, and select <strong>ETH</strong> as the <em>Active Interface</em>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/e55324a7e1778e2f5e32325751a2b37f.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Network Connection (MK4S, MK3.9S, MK3.5S)" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Connecting to Wi-Fi</h3>
<p>All Wi-Fi connection methods are accessible from <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network -&gt; Wi-Fi -&gt; Wi-Fi Wizard</em>.</p>
<h4>Entering credentials via touchscreen</h4>
<p>It is possible to enter the WiFi credentials via the printer touchscreen manually. Due to limited space on the screen, the touch keyboard has a layout similar to that of mobile phones with a hardware keyboard.</p>
<h4>Network scan </h4>
<p>The printer scans the available networks and shows a list of the results. Select the desired network, and the printer prompts you to enter the password using the touchscreen keyboard. </p>
<h4>NFC and Prusa App</h4>
<p>Use the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/prusa-mobile-app_735711">Prusa app</a> on your mobile device, such as a smartphone or a tablet, that supports NFC writing.</p>
<p>Set the WiFi credentials in the app. Tap on <em>write</em>, then position your device near the printer's NFC antenna. </p>
<p><em>The printer screen prompts for confirmation. Once confirmed, the WiFi credentials are stored in the printer's memory, and the printer is able to connect to the specified WiFi. </em></p>
<p>More info on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/nfc-antenna_725586">NFC antenna</a></p>
<h4>Setup file with network credentials </h4>
<p>Follow the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/wi-fi-and-prusalink-setup-mk4-mk3-9-mk3-5-xl-mini_413293#414162">dedicated guide on setting up Wi-Fi with manually entered credentials</a>.</p>
<h3>IP address</h3>
<p>After setting up a connection, to check if the connection is established with an <strong>IP address</strong>, navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Network</em>, and see if the <strong>IPv4 </strong>address is shown.</p>
<p>The IP address is automatically assigned by default (DHCP). Alternatively, a static IP address can be assigned, for this procedure consult the dedicated article on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-set-a-static-ip-address_695648">setting up a static IP address</a>.</p>
<h3>PrusaLink setup</h3>
<p>To start using PrusaLink, we need to obtain the printer’s IP address.</p>
<ol>
<li>After the connection is established, navigate to the menu <em>Settings -&gt; Network -&gt; IPv4 Address</em>. Note or write down the shown IP address.</li>
<li>Open a web browser on your computer.</li>
<li>Insert the IP address into the address line and open it as a webpage.
<div class="tip-callout">The selected IP address is accessible on your local network only and might change over time according to your network setup.</div>
</li>
<li>The PrusaLink webpage appears, requesting a log-in.
<ol style="list-style-type: lower-alpha;">
<li>On the printer, navigate to <em>Settings -&gt; Network -&gt; Prusalink</em> to get the <strong>username </strong>and <strong>password</strong>.</li>
<li>Use the shown username and password to log into PrusaLink on your computer.</li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
<h3>Prusa Connect setup</h3>
<p>Prusa Connect is our cloud service for remote printing available from anywhere.</p>
<p>Follow the dedicated guide to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/adding-the-printer-to-prusa-connect-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl-mini_417586">set up your printer with Prusa Connect</a>.</p>


Network Connection (MK4S, MK3.9S)

<p>The <strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong> is equipped with a <strong>Near Field Communication</strong> <strong>antenna</strong>, abbreviated <strong>NFC</strong>. This allows you to quickly write data into the <strong>NFC chip</strong> present on the <strong>xBuddy</strong> board, and the data can be used by the printer.</p>
<p>Our application for this is writing Wi-Fi credentials, using a mobile device that supports NFC. </p>
<div class="note-callout">Devices that do not support NFC communication do not support this feature. For this feature to work, the mobile device in use has to support NFC communication. </div>
<p>The chip in the NFC antenna is <strong>passive</strong>. It cannot trigger communication with another device. However, the printer can store and read data that is passed from the NFC antenna. </p>
<h3>Assembly </h3>
<p>The pre-assembled version of the MK4S comes with the NFC antenna already assembled. On the MK4S kit, it is assembled with the following steps. </p>
<ol>
<li>Access the bottom cover of the xBuddy board. If the part is assembled, loosen two M3x10 bolts to access the bottom cover. <br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/ab4a24ac9c8af17ce4dd7df8cb23e6c9_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></li>
<li>On a new kit, clean the NFC board with isopropyl alcohol, and stick it with the provided adhesive film, as shown in the pictures.
<div class="warning-callout">Attention: there is a self-adhesive layer on the antenna. Do not place the adhesive tape over any holes in the board!</div>
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<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/1ef13191a4733fa7cfba6fb11f175c42_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/69b31d98f77cc14f135350217ae27163_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li>Peel the adhesive tape paper layer from the NFC antenna. Stick the NFC antenna on the inner side of the bottom electronics cover, approximately like in the picture. Leave at least 2mm space between the NFC antenna and the edge of the cover. <br />
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<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/4c1ce4a5652d1acbdc34e12d13753ffd_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/1e66dcb8812199414ca9da09e6234ed2_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li>Connect the cable on the NFC antenna side. Fit the connectors together and press lightly, until you feel a click. <br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/95e28eab526d7d4ef394f8c783e9d224_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></li>
<li>If needed, loosen four M3x6 bolts to access the xBuddy board. The right-side picture shows the cable connection to the antenna connector on the xBuddy board. <br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="1">
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<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/878cca51de6cf20b554ee078ea3025ca_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8348%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/ee672bb89b1b0c6594e798d390474594_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="395" height="296" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
</ol>
<h3>Connect to Wi-Fi using NFC </h3>
<p>Download our Prusa app on your mobile device. In the app, navigate to <em>Menu -&gt; Set up Printer Wi-Fi</em>. </p>
<p>The app guides you through the steps, including inserting the Wi-Fi credentials. After inserting the credentials, the app shows that is sending the info to the printer. In that phase, <span style="color: #169179;"><strong>move the device close to the bottom side of the electronics box</strong></span>, at a maximum of 2-3 cm away. </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/4af8e12d247035dce7dfc16b142a4837_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="NFC antenna" alt="" width="600" height="450" loading="lazy" /></p>
<div class="tip-callout">A smaller distance might be needed, depending on the environment the printer is placed in. An environment subject to many interferences could create disturbances in wireless communication. </div>
<p>The printer screen prompts for confirmation. Once confirmed, the Wi-Fi credentials are read by the printer, and the printer is able to connect to the specified Wi-Fi network</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; border-style: none;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/2f8322358f41d7c7b1a4a48c4d29e5fd.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8562%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/28f733faa062fb311b628fed12c447a5.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" alt="" width="395" height="263" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


NFC antenna

<p>On printers with a graphic display, like the Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, Original Prusa MINI/+, and Original Prusa XL, it is possible to see a thumbnail of your print on the printer's screen.</p>
<h3>Format</h3>
<p>In firmware versions before 5.1.0, the thumbnail on the printer is in PNG format. This is a rather resource-heavy method, so it has been changed to the QOI format.</p>
<p>A G-code sliced with the PNG thumbnail will print normally in the new firmware versions, but the printer will not show the thumbnail when printing. To show the thumbnail, reslice the model in PrusaSlicer version 2.7.0 or newer. </p>
<h3>Prusa Slicer</h3>
<p>It is newly possible to emit several different thumbnail types (e.g. PNG and QOI) into the G-code. The old configuration options thumbnails and thumbnails_format were merged into one option called thumbnails and it accepts a string describing the required thumbnails. For example, 440x240/QOI, 640x480/PNG, etc. You can see this option in PrusaSlicer starting from version 2.7.0 in <em>Printer Settings -&gt; General -&gt; Firmware</em>.</p>
<p>Opening an old configuration in the new PrusaSlicer will automatically convert the old configuration options into the new one. Opening the new configuration in the older PrusaSlicer will also work, but only the extension of the first thumbnail in the list will be used.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/d1a7fc37c93e602e135cff7af412f6e6.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="QOI images" alt="" width="600" height="145" loading="lazy" /></p>


Model preview

<p>On the <strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong> and <strong>MK3.9S</strong>, it is possible to use a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193">Prusa CHT nozzle or a Prusa Nozzle</a>. These printers are also compatible with the <strong>Original Prusa MMU3</strong>. There are a few considerations when choosing the nozzle to be used with your multi-material upgrade.</p>
<h3>Prusa nozzle vs CHT nozzle with the MMU3</h3>
<p>When using the MMU3, the same nozzle prints up to five different filaments. When a filament is retracted, a small amount remains in the nozzle. The printer makes a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/wipe-tower_125010">Wipe tower</a> to remove the previous filament completely from the nozzle so that the color does not bleed into the next one.</p>
<p>The inner design of the CHT nozzle allows for a higher flow rate, which also means that there is more filament to be cleaned from the nozzle to change colors. This means that the wipe tower will be a lot larger when using multiple colors.</p>
<p>Thinking of that, a <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/prusa-nozzle-brass-0-4-mm/">Prusa nozzle</a> is shipped with your <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-mmu3/">MMU3 for MK4S</a>.</p>
<h3>Slicer Settings</h3>
<p>The purge volume (mm³) is what decides the amount of filament that will go to the purge tower. It can be adjusted in PrusaSlicer by going to the <strong>Purging Volumes...</strong> button on the Plater. This will open a box with the options to either "Use values from configuration" or "Use custom project-specific settings". If you select the second option, you can adjust the purge volumes between each filament change. The standard purge in mm³ for PLA is 65. Note that other filament materials will have different standard purge volumes.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100.026%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/c4b348f08c6b39ca2b41fb814595cad7_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU3 Prusa Nozzle vs. CHT nozzle" alt="" width="400" height="272" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.7906%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/7f168fdfcced5876b83711a8660307ff.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU3 Prusa Nozzle vs. CHT nozzle" alt="" width="400" height="447" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>See the images below comparing the purge towers with the standard Prusa nozzle and the CHT Prusa nozzle using the standard preset values.</p>
<p>With the <strong>Prusa nozzle</strong>, the standard values make a print with clean colors, meaning that the purge volumes do not need to be increased. The same purge volumes with the <strong>CHT nozzle</strong> cause the darker colors to bleed into the lighter colors, meaning that the purge volumes need to be increased. The increase necessary to prevent color bleeding increases the purge tower by over half of the size that it is with the standard purge volumes.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 289.45px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 268.65px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 268.65px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/b4a3ebda19ffa2fb7bb551e586559e7c.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU3 Prusa Nozzle vs. CHT nozzle" alt="" width="400" height="283" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 268.65px;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/b0bba8994a0059a1018de87412f4c343.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="MMU3 Prusa Nozzle vs. CHT nozzle" alt="" width="444" height="283" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 20.8px;">
<td style="height: 20.8px; width: 100%;" colspan="2"> </td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>


MMU3 Prusa Nozzle vs. CHT nozzle

<p>The Original Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, and MK3.5/S are equipped with an <span class="tooltip" data-tooltip="xbuddy-board_814977">xBuddy board</span>. </p>
<p>In their factory state, our printers only accept official firmware. To flash any unofficial firmware to the printer, it is necessary to break the appendix on the xBuddy board.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Breaking the appendix on the mainboard of the Prusa MK4/S, MK3.9/S, and MK3.5/S is <strong>IRREVERSIBLE</strong> and leads to <strong>VOIDING OF THE WARRANTY</strong> ON ELECTRONIC PARTS OF THE PRINTER.<br />If you break the appendix, we disclaim any responsibility for any damage to the printer and/or its surroundings (e.g. in case of a fire).</div>
<p>Before attempting this procedure, carefully review the description and the photo below. </p>
<p>To break the appendix, open the electronics box and locate <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>a safety seal on the xBuddy board</strong></span>, with an exclamation mark on it. Then, take a small flathead screwdriver or very thin sharp pliers and <span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>break off the thin middle part of the fuse</strong></span>. </p>
<p>Once the appendix is broken, flashing firmware can be done following the procedure <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-mk3-5-s-xl_453086">in the dedicated article on firmware updating</a>. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/9e2b3d5d8e34750731b95fc19df8905d.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="452" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p> </p>


Flashing custom firmware (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0

1.00


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4S printer support</li>



<li>Prusa app</li>



<li>New Wi-Fi wizard</li>



<li>Input Shaper calibration with accelerometer</li>



<li>GPIO board support</li>



<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.1.0


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2


<ul>
<li>Issues with numeric keyboard repaired (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S, XL)</li>



<li>Returned nozzle diameter setup (XL)</li>



<li>Printhead position during calibrations changed (MK4/S, MK3.9/S, MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Cold pull (XL)</li>
</ul>


6.1.3


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MK4S