⬢For this chapter, please prepare:
⬢Needle-nose pliers for cutting zip ties
⬢Philips (PH2) screwdriver
⬢2.0 mm Allen key for heatbed screws
⬢2.5mm Allen key for all M3 screws
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- Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade
- 1b. Printer disassembly
1b. Printer disassembly
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- Original Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S/MK3S+ to MK4 upgrade
- 1. Introduction
- 1a. Parts check
- 1b. Printer disassembly
- 1. Tools necessary for this chapter
- 2. Opening the electronics box
- 3. Disconnecting cables
- 4. Removing the Einsy-base
- 5. Removing the Einsy-door
- 6. Removing the heatbed
- 7. Dismantling cable management
- 8. Removing the LCD assembly
- 9. Dismantling the Y-axis: removing the belt
- 10. Removing the Y-axis assembly
- 11. Removing the Z-axis-tops
- 12. Removing the cable-holder
- 13. Removing the X-axis assembly
- 14. Removing the Z-axis motors
- 15. Removing the Z-axis-bottoms
- 16. Removing the Y-motor
- 17. Disconnecting the power cables
- 18. Disassembling the Y-carriage: belt
- 19. Dissasembling the Y-carriage: rod holders
- 20. Disassembling the Y-carriage: bearings
- 21. Disassembling the X-axis: Removing the pulley
- 22. Removing the X-axis motor
- 23. Removing the X-axis smooth rods
- 24. Removing the X-axis bearings
- 25. For new users of black PSU
- 26. Parts summary
- 27. Don't throw away
- 28. Can I take a gummy bear yet?
- 1c. Parts preparation
- 2. Frame assembly
- 3. X-axis & X-carriage assembly
- 4. Z-axis assembly
- 5. Nextruder assembly
- 6. xLCD assembly
- 7. Y-carriage & Heatbed assembly
- 8. Preflight check
- Manual changelog
1b. Printer disassembly
Relevant for:
Last updated 9 months ago Difficulty
Easy Steps
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⬢Loosen the screw on the Einsy-base.
⬢Open the Einsy-door to access the electronics.
⬢Some units may have cable bundles secured with zip ties. Carefully cut the zip ties.
Avoid cutting the cables. Although no cable or electronic parts will be needed for the upgrade, you can keep them for a project of your own.
⬢Release two screws in the heatbed-cable-clip and remove it from the printer.
⬢Disconnect all cables from the Einsy board.
Cable management, Einsy board, and wiring colors may vary between printer models.
Some of the cables have a safety latch on the connector. Press the latch before disconnecting.
⬢Using the screwdriver, release the screws on all power cables and disconnect them from the Einsy board.
⬢Release two screws in the extruder-cable-clip and remove it from the printer.
⬢Inside the Einsy-base, loosen the screw under the Einsy (electronics board).
No need to remove the screw completely at this time.
⬢From the opposite side of the Einsy-base, locate the screw behind the cooling fins and loosen it, no need to remove it.
⬢Grasp the Einsy-base and slide it out of the printer frame.
⬢Release two screws securing the hinges.
⬢Remove the Einsy-door with the hinges from the printer frame.
⬢Remove the remaining two screws from the frame.
⬢Release nine countersunk screws securing the heatbed.
⬢Remove the heatbed from the Y-carriage.
After removing the heatbed, there are nine unattached spacers on the Y-carriage. Watch out, they tend to fall off. After removing them, count them all to be sure.
You will no longer need these parts for the upgrade. We are more concerned that this small part is not found later by your child or your dog and that no injury occurs.
⬢We recommend placing the heatbed temporarily on a piece of clean cloth or other soft pad.
⬢Place the printer on the side with the PSU.
⬢Focus on the left Z-axis motor.
⬢Cut the zip ties securing the cable bundle.
The number of zip ties may vary between printer models.
⬢Cut the zip ties in the right Z-axis motor.
⬢Leave the cables free for now.
⬢Carefully remove the LCD cables from the extrusion.
⬢Place the printer back on its feet.
⬢Release four M3 screws securing the LCD assembly in the front plate.
⬢Remove the LCD assembly from the printer.
⬢Release two M3 screws securing the Y-belt-idler in the front plate.
⬢Remove the Y-belt-idler from the front plate. Leave it free "inside" the frame for now.
⬢Take the belt off the GT2-16 pulley on the Y-axis motor.
⬢Release and remove two M3 screws securing each Y-rod-holder in the front plate.
Note: MK3 and MK3S printers have different Y-rod-holder designs. At this point, the difference doesn't matter.
⬢Release and remove two M3 screws securing each Y-rod-holder in the rear plate.
⬢Remove the entire Y-axis assembly from the printer.
Do not remove any parts from the assembly at this time.
⬢On the Z-axis-top-left, release two M3 screws.
⬢Remove the Z-axis-top-left from the printer.
⬢On the Z-axis-top-right, release two M3 screws.
⬢Remove the Z-axis-top-right.
⬢From the back of the extruder, cut three zip ties at the top of the textile sleeve wraps the cable bundle. And two zip ties on the underside of the cable-holder.
Some MK3 units may have a rubber spiral wrap instead of the textile sleeve.
⬢Loosen the M3 screw securing the cable-holder.
⬢Remove the cable-holder from the extruder.
⬢From the front side of the printer, rotate both threaded Z-axis rods in parallel to move the X-axis assembly upwards. Stop when the trapezoid nuts of the X-axis assembly come out of the threaded rods.
⬢Remove the X-axis assembly from the printer.
⬢Pull out both Z-axis smooth rods from the Z-bottoms.
⬢Release four M3 screws from both Z-bottom securing the Z-axis motors.
⬢Remove the motors by pulling them out from underneath.
⬢Release three M3 screws on both Z-axis-bottom-right and Z-axis-bottom-left.
⬢Remove the Z-axis-bottoms from the printer.
⬢From the back of the printer, release two M3 screws securing the Y-axis motor assembly on the rear plate.
⬢Remove the Y-axis motor assembly from the printer.
⬢Peel off the sticker with the serial number of your printer. After the printer upgrade is complete, you will stick the label with the new serial number.
The serial number label can be on the back of the rear plate or on the back of the printer above the PSU.
This step is only for the black PSU only! Do not disassemble the silver PSU under any circumstances!!
⬢Place the printer frame on its left side (the side without the PSU).
⬢Focus on the cables guiding from the PSU.
⬢Release two M3 screws inside the PSU-cover.
⬢Remove the PSU-cover from the PSU.
⬢Disconnect all power cables from the PSU.
⬢Disconnect the power panic cable from the PSU.
Now the printer is disassembled into subassemblies. Some subassemblies require even minor surgery. Let's get started.
⬢Take the Y-axis assembly.
⬢Release two M3 screws securing the Y-belt-holder and Y-belt-tensioner.
MK3 has a different-looking part Y-belt-holder. However, the procedure is the same.
The Y-carriage part may differ from the picture depending on your printer model.
⬢Remove the belt assembly from the Y-carriage.
⬢There are the M3 screws on the Y-rod-holders. Loosen the screw and take the Y-rod-holder off the rod.
MK3 and MK3S use a zip tie instead of a screw. Cut off the zip tie and remove the Y-rod-holder from the rod.
⬢Do the same with all four Y-rod-holders.
⬢Remove the smooth rods from the Y-carriage assembly.
⬢Release two screws on each bearing clip on the Y-carriage.
MK3 and MK3S have U-bolts instead of bearing clips secured with two M3nN nuts on the opposite side.
Early MK3S+ units have bearing clips secured by two M3nN nuts on the opposite side.
⬢Remove the bearing clip and the bearing.
⬢In this way, remove all three bearings from the Y-carriage.
⬢Remove the M3 screw securing the pulley in the X-end-idler.
⬢Pull the pulley and the belt out of the X-end-idler.
Put the pulley aside, you don't need it anymore.
⬢Loosen the tensioning screw on the X-end-motor on the X-axis.
Note that the screw position may vary depending on the printer model.
⬢Release three M3 screws securing the X-axis motor.
⬢Pull the X-axis motor and pulley out of the belt and remove it from the X-axis.
⬢Pull the X-end-motor from the X-axis assembly.
It can be difficult to remove the part and more force is required. Use extreme caution to avoid injury.
⬢Slide the extruder assembly completely from the X-axis assembly. You don't need it anymore.
⬢Pull out both smooth rods from the X-end-idler.
It can be difficult to remove the parts and more force is required. Use extreme caution to avoid injury.
⬢Keep the smooth rods aside, you will need them for the upgrade.
⬢Release all the M3 screws securing the X-carriage-back on the back of the extruder assembly and remove it.
⬢Cut off the zip ties securing both upper bearings.
⬢Take off all LM8UU bearings from the extruder.
⬢Visually check their condition again. If they are in good condition, put them aside to use later when upgrading your printer.
Alternatively, you can use the LM8UU bearings from the X-ends that have not been subjected to so much stress during the printing. However, removing them is more difficult.
⬢If you've bought the black 24V 240W PSU, visit the dedicated installation guide here:How to replace the silver PSU with the black PSU.
Don't forget to get back to this manual afterwards.
⬢The printer and its subassemblies are disassembled into individual parts. Let's show which parts will be needed for the next steps to upgrade the printer.
⬢Prepare the following parts for the next chapters:
⬢Printer frame with the PSU (1x)
⬢Y-carriage (1x)
⬢Heatbed assembly (1x)
⬢Smooth rod 8x370 mm (2x) X-axis
⬢Smooth rod 8x330 mm (2x) Y-axis
⬢LM8UU bearing (6x) from X and Y-axis
⬢Retain the power cord to the PSU, flexible steel sheet(s) and spool holder to use the printer.
You will no longer need the parts not listed for the upgrade. Keep them aside to avoid mixing with new parts.
⬢No gummy bears yet? Please hold on.
⬢We do not want to keep you waiting, but the correct dosage of gummy bears is very important for the whole procedure.
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