MINI+

<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade <br /></strong></p>
<p>The current lead time is <strong>1-2 weeks </strong>for both xLCD versions. <br /><em>Due to high demand, we cannot guarantee delivery of this product before Christmas.</em></p>
<h3><span style="font-size: 20px;">Current lead time estimates for new orders</span></h3>
<p><span style="color: #e67e23;"><strong>Updated: December 17th, 2024 </strong></span></p>
<p><em>The dates are only an estimation at the date of update, specified above, and rely on the actual</em> production. <em>We're doing our best but please be aware that it can shift for the lead time products. We will update here and on the product pages accordingly.</em></p>
<p>The lead time estimate applies to standalone products, other products in the order may increase the lead time.</p>
<p>If you've ordered a product in a bundle, the lead time of the order is set based on the product in the bundle with the longest lead time.</p>
<p><strong>Due to high demand, we cannot guarantee delivery of the following products before Christmas.</strong></p>
<p></p>
<table class="table" style="border-collapse: collapse; height: 930.875px; border-style: ridge; width: 100%;" border="1">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 60.875px;">
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Product</h4>
</td>
<td style="height: 60.875px; width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center;">
<h4>Lead time</h4>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>MK4 to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3.9 to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK4S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>4-5</strong><strong> weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/+ to MK3.9S upgrade</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>MK3S/S+ to MK3.5S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK4S kit</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>4-5 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 upgrade kit <br />(all printer models)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade<br />(MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>4-5 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3.9/S &amp; MK4/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>4-5 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 72px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MMU3 assembled unit<br />(MK3S+ &amp; MK3.5/S)</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 72px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa XL Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MINI Enclosure</strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>1-2 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 51px;">
<td style="width: 48.3436%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>Original Prusa MK Enclosure </strong></p>
</td>
<td style="width: 51.6564%; border-style: dotted; border-width: 1px; text-align: center; height: 51px;">
<p><strong>4-5 weeks</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>You can find your order shipping date in the order detail section in our shop.</p>
<div class="note-callout">All products purchased in our <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/">online store</a> are currently being shipped from the<strong> Czech Republic, </strong>a member state of the <strong>European Union, customs charges may apply for shipments to countries outside of the EU!</strong> Please see our advisory article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vat-value-added-tax-customs-fees_1505#orders-outside-eu">here</a>.</div>

Shipping information

<div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Stable releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The latest <strong>stable release</strong> of PrusaSlicer can be always found in the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">DRIVERS &amp; APPS package</a> and it’s available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. The package also includes test objects and printer drivers, but you can choose to install only PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also download a standalone installer for your computer at <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/">PrusaSlicer introduction &amp; download</a> or at <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Stable releases are versions that have been tested as thoroughly as possible and have gone through numerous public alpha- and beta-versions.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Alpha and Beta releases</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Do you want to keep up with PrusaSlicer’s fast development pace? Development builds have the latest features and bug fixes. However, they can be unstable, crash, or behave unexpectedly. We do not recommend using development builds in production environments. Check out <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases">our GitHub</a> for downloads and more info.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For how to install PrusaSlicer on most computers, see our article <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/install-prusaslicer_1903">Install PrusaSlicer</a>.</div>
</div>


Download PrusaSlicer

<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">print time</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">vertical resolution</li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">By choosing <strong>taller layer heights</strong> you can significantly <strong>shorten the print time</strong> at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing <strong>a small layer height</strong> (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in <strong>extra detail</strong> at the cost of longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the <strong>vertical </strong>resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the <strong>XY plane</strong>, <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/">check nozzles with a different diameter</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The layer height should be below 80% of the nozzle diameter (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also consider using the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/variable-layer-height-function_1750">Variable layer height function</a>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-300x118.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-600x237.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-768x303.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/layer_height-800x316.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">First layer height</h3>
<p dir="ltr">When printing with low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. <strong>Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.</strong></p>
<p dir="ltr">You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).</p>
<p>Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the <strong>calibration of the first layer</strong> on your printer.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Perimeters</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters.</p>
<p>The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-300x81.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-600x162.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-768x207.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeters-800x216.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Spiral vase</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.</p>
<p dir="ltr">the spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, except the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.</p>
<p dir="ltr">When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">one perimeter</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">0% infill</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled top solid layers</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled supports</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"</li>
</ul>
<div class="note-callout">Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.</div>
<p dir="ltr">You can still adjust the number of <strong>bottom solid layers</strong>. Furthermore, you can adjust the <strong>External perimeters Extrusion width</strong> in the <strong>Advanced</strong> menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode</strong>. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Recommended thin wall thickness</h3>
<p dir="ltr">For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the <strong>optimal thin wall thickness</strong>. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.</p>
<p dir="ltr">In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-300x169.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-600x337.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-768x432.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/extrusion_approx-01-01-1-800x450.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image is a re-draw of the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-300x119.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-600x238.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-768x305.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/perimeter_overlap-01-1-800x318.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math</a>)</em></p>
<div class="note-callout">Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!</div>
<p dir="ltr">For more information, check the <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math">Slic3r Flow math page</a> (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Solid layers - top/bottom</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The bottom and top parts of models are usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can set <strong>how many top and bottom layers</strong> you wish to print. You can also set a <span style="font-weight: 400;"><strong>minimum wall thickness</strong>, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.</span></p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well to get top or bottom layers.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/41556b3e1891b8d0ae47c43fb032cb68.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Layers and Perimeters REVIEW" alt="" width="600" height="128" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p dir="ltr">The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see some sag in the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-300x99.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-600x198.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-768x254.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/top_layers-1-800x264.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.</em></p>
<p dir="ltr">Note that when printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e.g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).</p>
<p dir="ltr">The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Extra perimeters if needed</h3>
<p>A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Ensure vertical shell thickness</h3>
<p>This option was removed in PrusaSlicer 2.6. The new algorithm is much smarter than the previous implementations and is automatically applied where needed.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer ensures it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-300x173.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-600x346.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-768x443.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/ensure_vertical_wall_thickness_upscaled-800x462.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Avoid crossing perimeters</h3>
<p>Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).</p>
<p dir="ltr">This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If the detour is longer than the <strong>Max detour length</strong>, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-600x286.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-800x382.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-300x143.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-768x366.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-1536x733.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/avoid_crossing2-2048x977.jpg 2048w" alt="" width="1841" height="879" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect thin walls</h3>
<p dir="ltr">By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space, an infill pattern fills the void between these inside/outside perimeters. </p>
<p>Enabling <strong>Detect thin walls</strong> lets PrusaSlicer generate a single perimeter that works as both an inside &amp; outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.</p>
<p>This feature is automatically disabled if the <strong>Arachne perimeter generator</strong> is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Thick bridges</h3>
<p>For historical reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the <strong>Thick Bridges</strong> option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, <strong>this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look</strong>.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-600x292.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-800x389.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-300x146.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-768x374.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-1536x748.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy-2048x997.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/130222466-686942dc-7d52-4dfa-b35c-e3640897445b-copy.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="899" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em> Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Detect bridging perimeters</h3>
<p>Enables <strong>bridging flow</strong> for overhangs and turns on the fan. </p>
<h3>Seam position</h3>
<p>Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible <strong>vertical seam</strong> on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.</p>
<p>The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “<strong>Nearest</strong>” setting) or on the rear side (“<strong>Rear</strong>”), spread them randomly on the surface (“<strong>Random</strong>”), or arrange them into lines (“<strong>Aligned</strong>”).</p>
<p>You'll find more information and pictures in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/seam-position_151069">Seam position</a> article.</p>
<h3>Staggered inner seams</h3>
<p>This feature causes the inner seams to be shifted backward based on their depth, forming a zigzag pattern. This creates a stronger part by avoiding that the seams align.</p>
<h3>External perimeters first</h3>
<p>Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.</p>
<p>This parameter may help with <strong>dimensional accuracy</strong> since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.</p>
<h3>Fill gaps</h3>
<p>Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.</p>
<h3>Perimeter generator</h3>
<p>Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.</p>


Layers and perimeters

<p dir="ltr">3D printers work by laying layer over layer of plastic to create a 3D object. Each new layer must be supported by the one beneath it. If part of your model starts in mid-air and is not supported by anything below, you need to add an additional support structure to ensure a successful print.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">It is worth considering altering the orientation of the model or splitting the model into multiple parts in order to possibly reduce overhangs and consequently the amount of supports generated.</div>
<p dir="ltr">PrusaSlicer can both detect areas that need supports and generate them in these places <strong>automatically</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">You can also set supports manually using:</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a></li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/modifier-meshes-custom-supports-and-other-magic_114258#custom-supports">Support enforcers and blockers</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can be turned on from the <strong>right panel</strong> or in the <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr">There are 3 different Support styles in PrusaSlicer</p>
<ul>
<li dir="ltr">Grid</li>
<li dir="ltr">Snug</li>
<li dir="ltr"><a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131">Organic</a></li>
</ul>
<p dir="ltr">When the print finishes, depending on the model geometry and material used, the support structure is often easily removable with bare hands. You can use pliers to get a better grip in otherwise hard-to-reach places. A scalpel or a utility knife can also be used to cleanly remove a piece of support that seems to be stuck to the model.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Pieces of supports can be surprisingly sharp and are sometimes violently ejected in a random direction after removal. When you encounter hard-to-remove supports, <strong>consider wearing protective glasses</strong> (this sounds stupid until you get hit in the eye for the first time).</div>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports everywhere</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can grow from both the print bed and any model surface when necessary. </p>
<p dir="ltr">This ensures that every overhang and part starting mid-air will get supported. However, small imperfections may appear on the surface where supports started growing from.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports from build plate only</h3>
<p>Creates only supports that have their base at the print bed.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-300x171.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-600x343.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-768x439.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/everywhere_build_plate_only-800x457.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports from build plate only (left), supports everywhere (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">For support enforcers only</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Automatic support generation is enabled only for areas marked with a support enforcer. This option is essentially a shortcut that turns <strong>Print settings - Support material - Generate support material</strong> on, but <strong>Print settings - Support material - Auto-generated supports</strong> off.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Supports on/off for individual models</h3>
<p dir="ltr">It’s possible to print multiple objects at once each with its own support settings. By default, all models are affected by the global settings. You can overwrite them by <strong>right-clicking</strong> on a model in the 3D view and selecting <strong>Support material</strong>. Alternatively, you can right-click on the editing icon in the Object list.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A new window will appear in the right panel called <strong>Object settings to modify - Support material</strong>. Changing these settings will affect only the relevant object and its instances. You can remove the settings overwrite by clicking on the red cross icon. When you do so, the global settings will once again be applied.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-300x149.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-600x299.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-768x383.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_per_object-2-800x399.png 800w" alt="" width="495" height="247" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcer/blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">The automatic supports can sometimes appear in hard-to-reach places, resulting in a tedious removal of support structures. If you think such a part of the model could be printed without supports, but neither the <strong>Overhang threshold</strong> setting nor selecting <strong>Supports on built plate only</strong> helped, you can adjust supports manually.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Starting with PrusaSlicer 2.3, you can also use <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/paint-on-supports_168584">Paint on supports</a>.</div>
<p dir="ltr"><strong>Right-click</strong> on a model and choose either a <strong>Support blocker or Support enforcer</strong>.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #2dc26b;"><strong>Simple mode</strong></span> - Enforcers/blockers are always box-shaped</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #f1c40f;"><strong>Advanced mode</strong></span> - Box/Cylinder/Sphere/Slab shapes</p>
<p dir="ltr"><span style="color: #ba372a;"><strong>Expert mode</strong></span> - Option to load external geometry as a blocker/enforcer</p>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers and enforcers can be manipulated with the familiar Move, Rotate, and Scale tools. You can also quickly duplicate them with copy&amp;paste.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support blocker</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support blockers are useful when you’re generally happy with the automatic supports and you simply want to remove some of them. Focus on placing blockers where the supports meet the object, the rest of the support structure below will be removed automatically.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Support enforcers</h3>
<p dir="ltr">Support enforcers are great in situations, where only a few parts of the object need to be supported, but the automatic algorithm places supports all over the model. In this situation, don’t forget to switch the support mode to For support enforcers only. </p>
<p dir="ltr">It’s less common, but you can also use support enforcers with the automatic generation on.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Another interesting use of support enforcers is to split long bridges into smaller ones by placing a support in the middle of the bridge. You can repeat this process and print shorter, near-perfect bridges while still making the supports easy to remove.</p>
<div class="note-callout">Some options will only appear when <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/simple-advanced-expert-modes_1765">Expert mode</a> is selected.</div>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Generate support material</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports are disabled unless a model has an overwrite for this setting</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Auto-generated supports</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When off, the overhang detection is off. Only support enforcers generate supports.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Overhang threshold</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The Overhang threshold value represents the most horizontal slope (measured from the horizontal plane) that you can print without support material (90=vertical).</p>
<p dir="ltr">Changing this value is a quick way to adjust the amount of generated supports.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The lower the value, the less support will be generated.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-300x171.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-600x342.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-768x437.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/support_overhang_threshold-800x455.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<ol>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">The Overhang threshold value and how it's measured</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 55</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 35</li>
<li dir="ltr" role="presentation">Overhang threshold 15</li>
</ol>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Enforce support for the first</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Generate support material for the specified number of layers counting from the bottom, regardless of whether normal support material is enabled or not and regardless of any angle threshold. This is useful for getting more adhesion of objects having a very thin or poor footprint on the build plate.</p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-300x204.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-587x400.jpg 587w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-768x523.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/enforce_for_layers-800x545.jpg 800w" alt="" /><em>Enforce support for the first 100 layers</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Raft layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The object will be raised by this number of layers and support material will be generated under it. When the print finishes, you can grab the raft and peel it away from the part.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Raft contact Z distance</h3>
<p>The vertical distance between the raft and the object. Ignored for soluble interfaces.</p>
<h3>Raft expansion</h3>
<p>Expansion of the raft in the XY plane for better stability.</p>
<h3>Style</h3>
<p>Style and shape of supports. The default <strong>Grid</strong> supports have a very well-defined minimum area, making them very stable. However, they tend to leak out of regions they support along the walls of the object. The <strong>Snug</strong> supports maintain the shape of the overhang, so they do not leak to the walls. The trade-off is the possibility of lower stability of tall and thin support pillars.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-600x190.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-800x253.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-300x95.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-768x243.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-1536x485.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid-2048x647.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/snug_vs_grid.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="1847" height="584" loading="lazy" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Grid supports (left), Snug supports (right)</em></p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/organic-supports_480131"><strong>Organic supports</strong></a> offer a completely different approach to supporting overhanging areas. Branches of support structures grow from the sides and automatically get denser beneath parts that need the support. The Organic supports are easily removable, do not scar the surface, and are fast and cheap to print.</p>
<figure class="image" style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" title="Support material" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/30cd916294dd7ac737ac7c09e1edfbb9.jpg" alt="" width="2011" height="1119" loading="lazy" /><figcaption>Grid supports (left), Organic supports (right)</figcaption></figure>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top contact Z distance</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">The vertical distance between the object and the support material interface.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Setting this to 0 will prevent PrusaSlicer from using bridge flow and speed for the first object layer.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Values between 50-75% of the layer height seem to work well.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-300x191.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/contact_z_distance-800x508.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom contact Z distance</h3>
<p>Similar to Top contact Z distance, but affecting the gap at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear - default, usually the easiest to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Rectilinear grid - sturdier and less prone to breaking during printing compared to rectilinear infill, harder to remove</p>
<p dir="ltr">Honeycomb - sturdy, somewhat difficult to remove</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>With sheath around the support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Creates a single perimeter around the supports, which makes them sturdier, but more difficult to remove.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between support material lines. Increase to make support removal easier. Support interface layers bridge over support material lines, if you increase this value too much, these bridges will start to sag and have an imperfect connection with the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The pattern spacing also sets the internal resolution of PrusaSlicer's supports grid. If you're using Paint-on supports or Support enforcers and you're unable to force supports exactly where you want them to be, try lowering the pattern spacing to get more resolution.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Pattern angle</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Rotates infill pattern angle on the horizontal plane.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Closing radius</h3>
<p>For Snug supports only. Gaps smaller than the closing radius will be filled in.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Top interface layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Interface layers form a more uniform surface between the object and the support material. These are preferably set to a much denser pattern than the non-interface layers so that you can both maximize the surface area of the support in contact with the model to prevent sagging while minimizing print time and material used with a bigger non-interface pattern spacing.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr">Bottom interface layers</h3>
<p>Similar as Top interface layers, but affecting the number of interface layers at the bottom of the support tower (when supports start on top of a model and not on the build plate).</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface pattern spacing</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Spacing between interface lines. Set to 0 to get a solid interface.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Interface loops</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">When enabled, the top layer of supports is covered with loops - continuous polylines.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Support on build plate only</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports can start only on the print bed. Enabling this option is a really quick way to get rid of excess supports mostly on organic shapes. Make sure to check the preview and verify that all parts are either supported or at an overhang angle manageable by the printer.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-300x178.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-600x356.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-768x455.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/supports_build_plate_only-800x474.png 800w" alt="" /></p>
<p dir="ltr" style="text-align: center;"><em>Supports everywhere (left) vs Supports on build plate only (right)</em></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>XY separation between an object and its support</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Sets the width of a gap between the model and supports. Bigger XY separation decreases the contact area of supports but makes them easier to remove and less prone to fusing to the model.</p>
<p dir="ltr">If expressed as a percentage (for example 150%) it will be calculated over the external perimeter width.</p>
<p dir="ltr"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-300x151.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-600x301.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-768x386.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/XY_seperation-1-800x402.jpg 800w" alt="" /></p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Don’t support bridges</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Prevents support material from being generated under bridged areas.</p>
<h3 dir="ltr"><strong>Synchronize with object layers</strong></h3>
<p dir="ltr">Supports will be printed at equal layer heights as the model itself. This is useful with multi-material printers, where the extruder switch is expensive.</p>
<p>Synchronize with object layers can only be enabled with soluble supports (contact Z distance 0). </p>
<p>Not synchronizing with object layers allows the support layers to grow faster than the object layers (if not excessively slowed down by the cooling logic) and independent layer height also allows PrusaSlicer to follow the gap between the object and the support top surface precisely. We may consider this to be configurable even for non-soluble supports in the future.</p>
<p> </p>


Support material

Infill patterns

Original Prusa MINI+ kit assembly

The Original Prusa MINI+ is a compact 3D printer with all the bells and whistles you would expect from the creators of the award-winning Original Prusa i3 MK2 and MK3S!

Original Prusa MINI+ semi-assembled

Original Prusa MINI Enclosure

Assembly manuals

Basic calibration

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What to do when the printer reports an error message during calibration.

Calibration Error Messages

All information you need to know to learn how to calibrate your 3D printer to achieve perfect prints.

Calibration

Printer description

Printer features

FAQs and other useful information you might be interested in before or after making your purchase at shop.prusa3d.com

General Information

Basic overview of your 3D printer and it's features, plus general Prusa Research info.

About your printer

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In this section, you can find material guides, printer troubleshooting and general info about using your printer.

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QR Error codes

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Description of how to recognize and solve common problems, especially hardware and electronics related.

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Learn about different nozzles, Raspberry Pi connection, Octoprint and more.

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Other (PrusaSlicer)

The official documentation for the PrusaSlicer slicing software. From basic configuration to advanced settings like modifier meshes.

PrusaSlicer

Building your MINI+

1. Introduction

2. YZ - axis assembly

Building your MINI+ (printed spool holder)

3. X-axis & Extruder assembly

Manual changelog MINI+ semi-assembly

2. Assembling the Enclosure

4. Print head & Heatbed assembly

3. Installing the printer

5. LCD assembly & Electronics

Advanced filtration system (add-on)

6A. Spool holder assembly

White LED strip (add-on)

6B. Spool holder assembly

Fire Suppression System (add-on)

7. Preflight check

Mechanical lock (add-on)

Manual changelog MINI Enclosure

Manual changelog MINI+ kit

<p>On the MINI you flash the firmware using a USB flash drive.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/downloads/">Download the Zip file for the firmware</a> and extract it on your computer.</li>
<li>Copy the .bbf file in your chosen language to the root directory of a USB flash drive (Not within a folder). All files have the English language, and if all files are added, the chosen languages will be English and Czech.</li>
<li>Insert the USB flash drive and push the reset button<strong>.</strong> The bootloader will automatically compare the installed version with the one on the drive and, if newer, will automatically offer you to flash it.</li>
<li>Confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">If you have received the error "Firmware in the internal flash corrupted" use the alternative method below.</div>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/CHrL4w3DAZe5EwDZ_9559_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/CHrL4w3DAZe5EwDZ_9559_painted-300x300.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/CHrL4w3DAZe5EwDZ_9559_painted-400x400.jpeg 400w" alt="" width="432" height="432" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Updating from firmware pre-4.4.0</h3>
<p>Starting from firmware, <strong>4.4.0</strong>, the MINI+ has a new bootloader. This might cause some trouble when updating the firmware to version <strong>5.1.0</strong> and above. In this case, <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mini-2/firmware">download</a> firmware <strong>4.4.0</strong> or <strong>4.4.1</strong>. The downloaded folder will have two files. Flash the printer firmware with the two files in the USB drive. After that, flash the latest <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mini-2">firmware</a> as usual.</p>
<h3>Alternative method - older firmware release</h3>
<p>It is not possible to flash to the same, or an older version of the firmware release, using the method above. To flash an older firmware the procedure is as follows:</p>
<ol>
<li>Push the reset button, immediately followed by double-pressing the selector knob.</li>
<li>On the new screen, confirm the update by selecting the "FLASH" button and pressing the knob. </li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">If it repeatedly only boots the printer and gives you the home screen try to <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-cards-and-usb-drives_112291">format your USB flash-drive</a> or try a different one. <strong>Even if the flash drive works with G-Codes and printing, it may not work for flashing the firmware.</strong></div>


Firmware updating (MINI/MINI+)

<p>As there are ways of remotely transferring files and starting prints, an SD card or USB flash drive is the most common and reliable way to get your files to your machine. Though common and convenient, flash memory is not the most reliable in itself and your storage can be corrupted or fill up without any obvious signs. Therefore, we have put together a small guide on how to maintain, format, and purchase memory for your Original Prusa printer.</p>
<h3>Make sure your SD card is not locked!</h3>
<p>The SD card has a latch on the side. Before using your SD card, make sure that the latch is not set to the Locked position. In case it is locked, you will not be able to save files on the card, and the printer will not be able to open the SD card.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-300x293.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-01-410x400.jpg 410w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<h3>Storage over 32 GB</h3>
<p>There is no upper size limit on compatible storage media, but <strong>the built-in Windows formatting tool does not support formatting storage media from a size of 32 GB or more to FAT32.</strong> It will only provide the option for exFAT, which is currently not supported by our printers. There are similar limitations under various versions of Apple's OSx, where a third-party application must be used to format it correctly.</p>
<p>To format such a drive you need a third-party application, like Rufus, FAT32 format, or EaseUS Partition Master. <strong>Be careful when using such programs</strong> so you do not <strong>accidentally format the wrong storage media</strong>, like your hard drive. However, 8-16 GB is more than enough for most use cases, as a G-code file rarely exceeds 100 MB.</p>
<h3>How do I format the USB drive/SD card?</h3>
<p>If your SD card or USB drive is full or if you can't read the content of the drive, but the drive is recognized by windows, most often all you need to do is to format the drive.</p>
<div class="note-callout">If your USB drive or SD card does not even show up in your computer file explorer it is probably corrupted beyond repair, or at least beyond the scale of this article. If you get an error like the one in the picture below and it does not show up anywhere, off to google you go, but you might have to consider this card/USB drive lost and get a new one.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-600x238.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-800x317.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-300x119.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-02V3-768x304.jpg 768w" alt="" width="631" height="250"></p>
<h3>How to format on Windows</h3>
<p>On Windows, this is very simple. Locate your USB drive or SD card in my computer, right-click, and choose format.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 350px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-300x288.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-417x400.png 417w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-768x737.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-03-625x600.png 625w" data-hd-height="350px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<p>A new small window will pop up. Most of the time you can simply leave everything to default, but the most important thing is that the <strong>File System is set to FAT32.</strong> This and the Volume Label (Name of the drive) is the only thing you want to touch here. Click Start and your drive will be formatted in a matter of seconds.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Formatting any drive will delete all the content of the drive! Back up your stuff!</div>
<p><img decoding="async" style="max-height: 300px; display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-166x300.png 166w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04-222x400.png 222w" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/SD-cards-and-USB-flash-drives-04.png" data-hd-height="300px" data-hd-align="center"></p>
<div class="note-callout">If the USB stick will not work even after this procedure, it is either broken or its "partitioning scheme" is set as GPT, which is incorrect. <strong>It must be set as MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong> For how to change this, please see <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk-management/change-a-gpt-disk-into-an-mbr-disk">Microsoft's official documentation</a>.</div>
<h3>How to format on Mac</h3>
<p>On Mac, it is a few more steps, but still very accessible. Again, you want to choose <strong>FAT32 as your file system</strong>, but you also have the option of changing the "partitioning scheme", which <strong>should always be MBR (Master Boot Record).</strong></p>
<div class="warning-callout">This process deletes all content from the drive.</div>
<ol>
<li>Plug the USB drive or SD card into your Mac.</li>
<li>Go to <em>Applications -&gt; Utilities</em> and launch <em>Disk Utility.</em></li>
<li>Click on the icon in the top-left (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>) and select "Show All Devices" from the drop-down menu.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b49c3bac01f2fd71_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>Right-click on the USB drive/SD card in the sidebar under "External". <em>Select the top entry for your drive, not a partition located below.</em></li>
<li>Select Erase in the Disk Utility-toolbar (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-600x271.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-800x361.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-300x135.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-768x347.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted-1536x693.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/b04f0e7375dfbc17_painted.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="226"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="6">
<li>Enter a name for the formatted disk.</li>
<li>Click on the Format menu and choose MS-DOS (FAT).</li>
<li>Make sure the Scheme is set to "Master Boot Record".</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-600x301.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-800x401.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-300x150.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-768x385.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-1536x771.png 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01-2048x1027.png 2048w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/snmek-obrazovky-2021-10-07-v8-32-01.png 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="251"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>macOS Big Sur 11.6</em></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Click Erase.</li>
<li>Your USB drive will now be erased and re-formatted correctly.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">If your SD card is not detected by the printer at all, be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/sd-card-not-working_2095">SD card not working</a> for further information.</div>

SD cards and USB drives

<p>This article will guide you through the replacement of the nozzle on your Original Prusa MINI printer. Note that this requires you to have some tools available and also be careful while changing the nozzle as you might damage the printer or burn yourself.</p>
<h3>Why change the nozzle?</h3>
<p>There might be two reasons, why you need to replace the nozzle:</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle is worn out and needs a replacement.</li>
<li>You want to print using a different nozzle diameter.</li>
</ul>
<div class="warning-callout">Unless you print abrasive materials with a brass nozzle, <strong>the stock nozzle will last you many hundreds of printing hours</strong>. Changing a relatively new nozzle to resolve a clog is not the solution!</div>
<div class="tip-callout">The stock 0.4mm Nozzle installed on the Original Prusa MINI <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nozzle-0-4-mk3-s-mini/">can be found in the eshop</a>. The printer is also <strong>compatible with E3D V6 nozzles.</strong></div>
<h3>Preparation</h3>
<ul>
<li>Get hold of a <strong>16mm spanner</strong>, or an adjustable wrench to secure the heater block, plus <strong>a pair of pliers or a 7mm socket to unscrew the nozzle</strong>. <em>A very large spanner or an adjustable wrench can quickly drain heat from the heater block and may cause a Thermal runaway error, depending on how it grips the block.</em></li>
<li>Get a non-flammable surface to place the used hot nozzle on (i.e. plate or aluminum foil).</li>
<li>Unload the filament. Optionally, do a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mini_126399">coldpull</a>.</li>
</ul>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Preheat the nozzle to 280 °C. Navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. If your printer firmware version is up to 4.4.1, navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>. <strong>Heating the nozzle is essential for this process! </strong></li>
<li>Gain better access to the nozzle by moving the extruder axis as high as possible. Navigate to <em>LCD Menu -&gt; Control -&gt; Move Axis -&gt; Move Z. </em>If your printer firmware version is up to 4.4.1, navigate to<em> LCD Menu -&gt; Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">Turn off the printer before the next step!</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>Hold the heater block with a 16mm spanner (or an adjustable wrench). </li>
<li>Use pliers, or preferably a 7mm socket, to unscrew the nozzle. Be careful, the nozzle is still hot!</li>
<li>Place the extracted <span style="color: #e03e2d;"><strong>hot</strong></span> nozzle on your non-flammable surface and put it out the way so you don't accidentally touch or lean on it.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout" style="text-align: center;"><strong>Turn left to loosen the nozzle (<span style="color: #e67e23;">orange arrow</span>). Turn right to tighten it (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrow</span>).</strong></div>
<div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 99.9979%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8266%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/802a28842d393240.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/802a28842d393240-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/802a28842d393240-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/802a28842d393240-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/802a28842d393240-768x577.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/802a28842d393240.jpg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8266%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted-1536x1153.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/3d4dd420f4738433_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<ol start="6">
<li>While the print head is still heated and holding the heater block in place with the spanner, insert the new nozzle and tighten it gently, but firmly. <strong>Do not use excessive force!</strong></li>
<li>As soon as you can't screw the nozzle in anymore, check if there is a slight gap between the nozzle and the heater block (<span style="color: #3598db;">blue marker</span>). More details are explained below.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>After changing the nozzle you should redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">First Layer Calibration (MINI/MINI+)</a>!</strong></div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; height: 404px;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr style="height: 404px;">
<td style="width: 50%; height: 404px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f4f263f41ea2a5fc_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f4f263f41ea2a5fc_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f4f263f41ea2a5fc_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f4f263f41ea2a5fc_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/f4f263f41ea2a5fc_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 50%; height: 404px;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2343266458708f62_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2343266458708f62_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2343266458708f62_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2343266458708f62_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2343266458708f62_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3>Final inspection</h3>
<p>There must always be a gap (~0.5 mm) between the nozzle and the heater block (blue marker/Green arrow). <strong>This is important to make sure the nozzle is 'locked' against the heatbreak, creating a seal.</strong> If there is no visible gap between the nozzle and the heater block, it can indicate that the nozzle didn't reach the heatbreak, which can lead to leaks and clogs (red arrows).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/19113c4eddb0e335_painted.png" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/19113c4eddb0e335_painted-600x272.png 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/19113c4eddb0e335_painted-800x363.png 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/19113c4eddb0e335_painted-300x136.png 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/19113c4eddb0e335_painted-768x348.png 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/19113c4eddb0e335_painted-1536x696.png 1536w" alt="" width="580" height="263" loading="lazy" />Oppositely, if the outside gap is too large (several millimeters), it can change the thermal properties of the hotend, and the printer will struggle to reach and hold the set temperature.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>It is necessary to redo the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-mini-mini_229122">First Layer Calibration (MINI/MINI+)</a> after replacing the nozzle.</strong> If you installed a nozzle with a diameter other than 0.4 mm (0.25, 0.6, 0.8 mm), please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/different-nozzle-types_2193#first-layer-calibration-of-other-nozzles">Different nozzle types</a>.</div>

Changing/replacing the nozzle (MINI)

<p>It is recommended to take some time to maintain your Original Prusa MINI/+ regularly. This should be done even if the printer is working perfectly. </p>
<h3>Clean the sheet</h3>
<p>If the printed objects have trouble adhering to the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-steel-sheets-guidepost_2195">print sheet surface</a>, you need to wipe the sheet clean. Choose the right cleaning product for your sheet (IPA, Windex, etc.), pour a small amount of it onto an unscented paper towel, and wipe the print surface. </p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Never clean the textured and satin powder-coated sheets with acetone!</strong> Doing so will create microfractures in the PEI texture, which will cause the surface to deteriorate over time. </div>
<p>The sheet should be cleaned while cold to achieve the best results - cleaning it when hot can lead to potential injury, either from the heated bed or nozzle. When cleaning at higher temperatures, the alcohol will also evaporate before it can clean anything. More details can be found in the <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804">First layer issues</a>. </p>
<div><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sheets.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sheets-300x83.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sheets-600x165.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sheets-768x212.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/sheets-800x220.jpg 800w" alt="" width="1452" height="400" loading="lazy" /></div>
<h3>Bearings maintenance</h3>
<p>After ~200 hours of printing, the smooth rods should be cleaned with a paper towel. You can buy a lubricant (any good super lube will do) and apply it onto the smooth rods (XYZ axes). MINI/+ is supplied with a tube of Prusa lubricant and it is also <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-lubricant-applicator-set-5g/">available in our eshop</a>. </p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>Do not apply lubricant on the trapezoid nut or the threaded lead screw of the Z-axis! </strong></div>
<p>With the printer turned off, move the X-axis (extruder) and Y-axis (heatbed) by hand back and forth a couple of times. If you feel that one of the axes doesn’t move smoothly anymore, the bearings can be taken out and greased on the inside (they should be removed from the axis because the plastic lip-seal will prevent most of the grease from getting inside). </p>
<p>For our detailed maintenance guide, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">Maintenance tips</a>. </p>
<h3>Fans</h3>
<p>Both fans should be checked and cleaned every couple hundred hours. Computer cleaner spray (compressed air) will get the dust away and tweezers can be used for little plastic strands. Always hold the blades when cleaning the fan with compressed air. </p>
<h3>Extruder driver gear cleanup</h3>
<p>The extruder gears do not need any lubrication. However, over time they can suffer from a build-up of filament shavings in the grooves, and loose gripping force that can cause under-extrusion. Use compressed air to blow the debris out or use a small brass brush to clean the grooves, a regular toothpick will do the job as well. Check and clean from the access window on the top of the extruder assembly. Clean what you can, then rotate the gear and repeat. A very small amount of lubricant on <strong>only</strong> the drive teeth does not hurt but can cause problems if it reaches the filament teeth or starts to collect debris. </p>
<p>For more extensive disassembly, see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">How to access and clean the extruder-pulley (MINI/MINI+)</a></p>
<div><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hatch.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hatch-300x190.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hatch-600x381.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hatch-768x487.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/hatch-800x507.jpg 800w" alt="" width="630" height="400" loading="lazy" /></div>
<p>Opening the idler will enable you to clean both gears and/or remove any filament leftovers caught in the extruder gears. It’s advised to inspect the gears from time to time and remove any debris caught in the extruder. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Idler-door-open.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Idler-door-open-300x184.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Idler-door-open-600x368.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Idler-door-open-768x471.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Idler-door-open-800x491.jpg 800w" alt="" width="652" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>PTFE tubes</h3>
<p>The MINI has four PTFE tubes, <strong>two external and two internal</strong>, that may need a basic level of attention from time to time. PTFE tubes are used to lead the filament strand from the spool, through the extruder, all the way to the nozzle. Over time, filament debris can accumulate in the PTFE tubes. </p>
<p>These tubes should be clean and uniform. If they are deformed or look worn they should be replaced. Use a can of compressed air to clean them. <strong>Using a piece of solid wire can damage them on the inside. </strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/e38acc15b891bcd350840b7461bbc151.jpg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="Regular maintenance (MINI/+) REVIEW" alt="" width="450" height="382" loading="lazy" /><em>The leftmost tube has a regular inner diameter, while the rightmost tube has a deformed, worn tip. </em></p>
<h4>Accessing the PTFE tubes:</h4>
<p><strong>External tubes</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>The first tube where you load filament, which leads to the extruder, can be pulled out by hand. <em>If you are unable to pull out the first tube by hand, please follow <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-access-and-clean-the-extruder-pulley-mini-mini_126457">How to access and clean the extruder-pulley (MINI/MINI+)</a> to Step 8 to release the M3x12 screw securing it. </em></li>
<li>The second, longer, main Bowden tube leads from the extruder to the print head. Use a spanner (size 10) to loosen the nuts securing it to the fittings, found at each end of it. <br /><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/PTFE-check.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="395" loading="lazy" /></li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">This is also useful if the filament failed to load/unload and got stuck in this tube. </div>
<div><strong>Internal tubes</strong></div>
<ol start="1">
<li>Below each fitting of the main Bowden tube, you will find a PTFE tube. Both should be inspected if you have loading issues. The one located in the extruder is a short tube that assists the filament exiting the extruder. </li>
<li>The hotend/print head PTFE-tube needs to be clean and slightly compressed when installed inside the heat break. Please see our comprehensive <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mini-mini_119449">illustrated guide on replacing the PTFE-tube in the MINI</a>. </li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">For any extrusion issue on the MINI be sure to check out <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mini-mini_112011">Clogged nozzle/hotend (MINI/MINI+)</a>. </div>
<h3>Nozzle</h3>
<h4>Inside</h4>
<p>If you have a clog or print failure you may need to do a couple of Cold pulls. Also, changing from PLA to PETG, <strong>at PLA temperatures can cause issues.</strong> Cold pulls should clear any partial or full clog and get you printing again. See our guide on <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mini_126399">doing a cold pull on the Prusa MINI</a>. When heated, it can also help to use an acupuncture needle (one is included with the kit), to clean the inside of the nozzle. </p>
<h4>Outside</h4>
<p>If your nozzle is covered with plastic on the outside it can affect its thermal properties. To clean it, heat the nozzle for 5 minutes, and press the <strong>reset button</strong>. </p>
<p>Immediately after that use a small brass brush to clear away any old plastic stuck on the nozzle and heater block. <strong>Be extra careful around the fragile hotend heater and thermistor wires! </strong></p>
<h4>Replacement</h4>
<p>Nozzles do wear out over time, even when only printing PLA and PETG. If you attempt to print abrasive filaments, like steel-fill, using the stock brass nozzle, the nozzle will be ruined quickly. </p>
<p>Should you need to change the nozzle, you will find a <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-replacing-the-nozzle-mini_134235">complete guide here</a>, covering the whole procedure, as well as some common mistakes you want to avoid. </p>
<h3>Updating the firmware</h3>
<p>Keeping your system fresh and up to date is important. The firmware is continuously being developed and new features and operational improvements are implemented regularly, based on testing and feedback from our users. For a complete guide on flashing the firmware, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/firmware-updating-mini-mini_124784">Firmware updating (MINI/MINI+)</a>. </p>


Regular maintenance (MINI/MINI+)

<p>A cold pull is a technique used to clear the printer’s hotend and nozzle of possible obstructions such as filament and other debris. It is also recommended to be part of the regular printer maintenance routine. <strong>A cold pull can usually only be used if the filament is able to reach the nozzle.</strong> If there is an obstruction, a cold pull will most likely not be able to resolve this. Please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/clogged-nozzle-hotend-mini-mini_112011">Clogged nozzle/hotend (MINI/MINI+)</a> instead.</p>
<div class="warning-callout"><strong>If you are using a Nozzle X</strong>, only use cleaning filament. Do not use the cold-pull method as this can damage the nozzle.</div>
<p>We recommend using regular PLA or specific cleaning filaments for this procedure. Using a different color from what you were recently printing with can make it easier to see if the nozzle is clear.</p>
<h3>Procedure</h3>
<ol>
<li>Unload any filament that is loaded by going to <em>Filament -&gt; Unload filament -&gt; [PLA, PETG, ABS etc.] on the LCD-menu</em></li>
<li>Move the hotend to the right side of the X-axis to reduce strain on the X-axis during the following steps.</li>
<li>Unscrew the large brass nut (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>) holding the long PTFE tube by using a 10mm spanner and rotating it anticlockwise. <strong><em>The lower portion of the brass fitting should not be unscrewed and removed!</em></strong></li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted-1536x1151.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/eddce33c9743b468_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<ol start="4">
<li>On the printer display, go to <em>Settings -&gt; Temperature -&gt; Nozzle</em>, and set the value to 270 °C (or as indicated for your cleaning filament) to start heating the nozzle.</li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">The nozzle is now very hot! Don't burn yourself.</div>
<ol start="5">
<li>Insert the filament into the hotend from the top that was exposed in step 3. <em>Make sure that the filament tip is cut to make inserting it easier.</em></li>
<li>From the printer display, select Cooldown from either the Temperature or Preheat menu, <em>or simply hit the Reset button on the printer.</em></li>
<li>While the hotend is cooling down, continuously push the filament down so that it extrudes from the nozzle. Do so until it cools down to the point where you can’t push anymore through (around 160 - 170 °C).</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/79d83641f504be69_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/79d83641f504be69_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/79d83641f504be69_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/79d83641f504be69_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/79d83641f504be69_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/79d83641f504be69_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<ol start="8">
<li>When the temperature is near 90 °C (95-90 °C), hold the X-axis arm to support it, and pull the filament straight up using your hands or pliers, out of the extruder. <strong>Pull it firmly and steadily.</strong></li>
</ol>
<div class="warning-callout">&nbsp;Be careful! Harshly jerking the filament out can cause it to break inside the hotend or even damage the printer. Make sure to pull straight upwards, not at an angle.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/a427a2d506d69d4b_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/a427a2d506d69d4b_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/a427a2d506d69d4b_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/a427a2d506d69d4b_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/a427a2d506d69d4b_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/a427a2d506d69d4b_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="450"></p>
<ol start="9">
<li>Inspect the filament tip once pulled out to confirm that it’s clear of any old filament or burn marks; if it’s still not clean, repeat the process again.</li>
</ol>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/dcd857518d466f46_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/dcd857518d466f46_painted-589x400.jpeg 589w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/dcd857518d466f46_painted-800x543.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/dcd857518d466f46_painted-300x204.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/dcd857518d466f46_painted-768x521.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/dcd857518d466f46_painted-1536x1043.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="600" height="407"></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Three cold pulls in a row, presented from left to right.</em></p>
<ol start="10">
<li>Repeat steps 4 to 8 at least one more time to ensure that the nozzle is clear and clean of any remaining filament.</li>
<li>Resecure the brass fitting from step 3 firmly, using the 10 mm spanner to tighten it. <strong>After removing the extruded filament from the heatbed, the printer is ready for use.</strong></li>
</ol>

Cold pull (MINI)

<p>Loose belts would cause a printer malfunction and prevent proper printing. The easiest way to check is printing a round object - if any of the belts are not tightened properly the result is an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle. Y-axis belt is located under the heatbed, X-axis belt moves the print head.</p>
<h3>Checking the belt tension</h3>
<h4>Belt tuner</h4>
<p>We have our own <a href="https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/">belt tuner app</a>. The application determines the belt tension by measuring the frequency of the vibration generated by strumming it. </p>
<p>Follow the instructions in the linked belt tuner app to adjust the belt tension. </p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/342c4a2c9bf82513.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<h4>Belt tension test</h4>
<p>If you move each axis to the far right or left, use a finger push the belt down in the center of the axis. Some force should be needed for bending the belt. Careful when pushing so you do not overstretch the belt, as you might damage the printer. Belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. </p>
<div class="tip-callout">A great way to check whether your belt is at the correct tension is to prints this <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/46639-tension-meter-for-the-gt2-belts-of-i3-mk3s-or-prus">Tension Meter for the GT2 belts</a>.</div>
<h3>Adjusting the X-axis belt</h3>
<h4>Slight adjustments</h4>
<p>Get out your 2.5 mm Allen key:</p>
<ol>
<li>Loosen the two screws as depicted below by turning them <span style="color: #b96ad9;"><strong>counterclockwise</strong></span> (left picture).</li>
<li>Tighten the two screws at the very end of the X-axis by turning them <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>clockwise</strong></span> (right picture). These push directly onto the ends of the smooth metal rods, moving the plastic part with the belt idler, tightening the belt.</li>
</ol>
<div class="note-callout">Adjusting only one of the two end screws will create a skew in the XZ-axis. However, it can also correct a skew if already present.</div>
<ol start="3">
<li>Once the belt is tight, turn the two side screws <span style="color: #236fa1;"><strong>clockwise</strong></span> to fix the plastic part holding the belt idler, in place.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjust_Xbelt-1883x800C.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjust_Xbelt-1883x800C-600x255.jpg 600w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjust_Xbelt-1883x800C-800x340.jpg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjust_Xbelt-1883x800C-300x127.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjust_Xbelt-1883x800C-768x326.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Adjust_Xbelt-1883x800C-1536x653.jpg 1536w" alt="" width="942" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Large adjustments</h4>
<p>To access the X-axis belt holder you must remove the heat sink of the print head. This requires some disassembly.</p>
<ol>
<li>Loosen the belt by following the method described above.</li>
<li>Follow the guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatsink-mini-mini_121780">How to replace a heatsink (MINI/MINI+)</a> to Step 10 to remove the heat sink.</li>
<li>Remove the belt from the middle slot (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>), move it in 2 - 3 'teeth' (<span style="color: #3598db;">blue arrow</span>), and push it back into the slot, using a 1.5 mm Allen key.</li>
<li>Follow the guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatsink-mini-mini_121780">How to replace a heatsink (MINI/MINI+)</a> backward from Step 10 to reassemble the print head.</li>
<li>Adjust the tension of the belt following the method above.</li>
</ol>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cafd596fd505838b_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cafd596fd505838b_painted-534x400.jpeg 534w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cafd596fd505838b_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cafd596fd505838b_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cafd596fd505838b_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/cafd596fd505838b_painted-1536x1151.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="534" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h3>Adjusting the Y-belt</h3>
<h4>Slight adjustments</h4>
<p>In the middle of the front plate of the heat bed assembly (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrows</span>), you will find two screws that will adjust the tension of the Y-axis belt. Use the 2.5 mm Allen key and by turning them <strong>clockwise</strong> you will tighten the Y-axis belt.</p>
<p><img decoding="async" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/553c929c2b9d67ff_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/553c929c2b9d67ff_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/553c929c2b9d67ff_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/553c929c2b9d67ff_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/553c929c2b9d67ff_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/553c929c2b9d67ff_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="534" height="400" loading="lazy" /></p>
<h4>Large adjustments</h4>
<p>If the Y-axis belt is very loose you must move it in the Y-axis belt holder found beneath the bed carriage. </p>
<ol>
<li>Loosen the 2 screws in the picture above by turning them counterclockwise. Do not unscrew them completely.</li>
<li>Turn the whole printer over to its side to access the bottom of the printer (left picture).</li>
</ol>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/90c9bbbc74fdebf6_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/90c9bbbc74fdebf6_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/90c9bbbc74fdebf6_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/90c9bbbc74fdebf6_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/90c9bbbc74fdebf6_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/90c9bbbc74fdebf6_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
<td style="width: 48.8106%;"><img decoding="async" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/63f2a9d641fbbb5c_painted.jpeg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/63f2a9d641fbbb5c_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/63f2a9d641fbbb5c_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/63f2a9d641fbbb5c_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/63f2a9d641fbbb5c_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/63f2a9d641fbbb5c_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w" alt="" width="400" height="300" loading="lazy" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<ol start="3">
<li>Slide one end of the belt out from the belt holder (right picture), move the belt in 2-3 'teeth'(<span style="color: #3598db;">blue arrow</span>), and push it back into the slot using the 1.5 mm Allen key (<span style="color: #e67e23;">orange arrows</span>).</li>
<li>Turn the printer back right side up and fine adjust the belt tension with the two front screws (as described in the previous method).</li>
</ol>

Adjusting belt tension (MINI/MINI+)

<p>With the release of the Original Prusa MINI, we have again developed a new mainboard, which is a 32-bit platform. It still works on 24V and uses Trinamic drivers for motors, allowing for super silent printing, but also includes ethernet, expansion with Wifi, and its 32-bit system, allowing for more complex calculations and processing of much more than just G-code.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">For a full guide on replacing the Buddy board, or more information regarding<strong>&nbsp;cable-management</strong>, we recommend checking the guide <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-buddy-control-board-mini_123848">How to replace a Buddy control board (MINI)</a>.</div>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-buddydesc.jpg" sizes="100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-buddydesc-300x225.jpg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-buddydesc-533x400.jpg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-buddydesc-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/MINI-buddydesc-800x600.jpg 800w" alt="" width="800" height="600"></p>
<div class="note-callout"><strong>Did you know, that...?<br /></strong>The Buddy board is designed and built to sustain considerable heat. It does not need any cooling even if the printer is in an enclosure.</div>


Buddy electronics Wiring (MINI)

<p>Your Original Prusa MINI and MINI+ printer may be causing some vibrations during use. In most cases, this will not cause any printing issues, however, we will show you how to minimize it or get rid of it entirely.</p>
<h3>Identify the noise</h3>
<p>Go to the <em>Printer display -&gt; Settings -&gt; Move Axis,</em> and <em>Move X</em> and <em>Move Y</em> individually to see if the noise can be narrowed down to a single axis. You can also start a print and during operation/noise, try placing your hand on various components and hear if it dampens the sound.</p>
<p>Components such as:</p>
<ul>
<li>Heatbed</li>
<li>Motors</li>
<li>LCD assembly</li>
</ul>
<p>Some sounds can be hard to identify and some may only present themselves with certain simultaneous movements of the X- and Y-axis. Therefore, we recommend inspecting all points outlined in this article, even if you are not sure exactly where the noise is coming from.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">This article covers the Original Prusa MINI and MINI+. For the i3 series, please see <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/article/vibration-when-printing-mk3s-mk2-5s_2177">Vibration when printing (MK3S+/MK2.5S)</a>.</div>
<h3>Inspect your printer</h3>
<h4>Foam pads</h4>
<p>The printer comes with 5 foam pads that should be placed in the correct positions. There are 4 onto the ends of the frame's aluminium extrusions (<span style="color: #2dc26b;">green arrows</span>), and a 5th below the electronics box in a space reserved for it (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Make sure the pads are on the frame extrusions, not the front- and back-plate.</div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8137%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/83a5b21ab9f9590f_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8137%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/3e05220a5cbf99b1_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Lubricating rods and bearings</h4>
<p>New noises coming from the printer after many hours of use is likely a sign that the rods and bearings could use some attention. For more information on how and with what to lubricate <a href="http://help.prusa3d.com/guide/maintenance-tips_23200">check out our guide</a>.</p>
<h4>X-axis</h4>
<p>Look at the X-axis from the side. Align the X-end parallel to the Z-axis smooth rods by twisting the plastic part. Do not use too much force when twisting. You may damage the X-axis. You can use the steel sheet to check the rods against the heatbed.</p>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="width: 48.8176%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/cd3837a4a1b6af42_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="300"></td>
<td style="width: 48.8176%;"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/ac231da75ca2dcfb_painted.jpeg" alt="" width="400" height="400"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h4>Y-axis</h4>
<p>Make sure that both the front and rear plates are well secured. Go over each screw with a 3 mm Allen key. When tightening the M5x20r screws, push on the extrusion from above.</p>
<h4><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6285d86097829e72_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="375">Heatbed screws</h4>
<p>Check the 9 screws on the heatbed if any might be loose. If these are not well secured, the heatbed, screws, and spacers can rattle during movements. When tightening, always follow the correct order of:</p>
<ol>
<li>The center screw (<span style="color: #3598db;">light blue circles</span>)</li>
<li>The four edges (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple circles</span>)</li>
<li>The remaining four corners (<span style="color: #f1c40f;">yellow circles</span>)</li>
</ol>
<h4><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/a60f99d2d67a8614_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="375">Y-axis pulley</h4>
<p>If the pulley Y-axis is touching the motor, even just slightly, it adds resistance which can lead to vibrations and even printing issues. Ensure that the spacing is the correct 2 millimeters, the pulley is oriented correctly, and secured by the set screw on the flat side of the motor shaft (<span style="color: #b96ad9;">purple arrow</span>).</p>
<p><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted.jpeg" sizes="(min-width: 1024px) 820px, 100vw" srcset="https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted-533x400.jpeg 533w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted-300x225.jpeg 300w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/23e19730af598289_painted.jpeg 1600w" alt="" width="500" height="375"></p>
<h3>Other tips and tricks</h3>
<h4>Surface the printer stands on</h4>
<p>The surface that the printer is on can amplify any of the vibrations and noises coming from the printer. <strong>The surface the printer is on should be steady and firm, and should not wobble during printing or if pushed by hand.</strong> A hardwood table is an example of this.&nbsp;</p>
<p>This can be enhanced further by placing the printer on a concrete slab/tile which would eliminate any vibrations traveling into the table/desk the printer is standing on.</p>
<h4>Padding under the printer</h4>
<p>An easy solution to dampening the noise and vibration of your printer is to add some sort of additional padding underneath the printer. This will dampen any sound resulting from the resonance between the<br />
printer and the surface the printer is resting on.</p>
<div class="tip-callout">Due to the different construction of the Original Prusa MINI, <strong>very soft padding is not optimal</strong> as the printer can wobble during operation.</div>
<p>You can use something you have around the house. Such as a folded towel or foam padding like you may find in children's play areas.&nbsp;</p>

Vibration/noise when printing (MINI/MINI+)

<p>If you are trying to unscrew any of the screws in the printer, and the key keeps turning without releasing the screw, it means that the screw is stripped.</p>
<p>You might wish to drill the screw and using an extractor if you have experience using these tools. If you do not have experience, do not attempt it, and follow the tips below.</p>
<div class="warning-callout">Do not follow internet tutorials if they are not specific for electronics or sensitive parts. Methods specific for woodworking might damage your printer.</div>
<div class="tip-callout">If you have a strong magnet, you can attach it to your Allen key to remove any possible debris and help with the screw extraction.</div>
<ol>
<li>Different Allen key: you might be using an incorrect Allen key, or the tool might be damaged. Try using the other side of the Allen key. This can happen especially for the smaller screws.</li>
<li>Better grip of the screw: if the head of the screw is damaged, you can place something between the head of the screw and the Allen key to make the grip better. The most commonly used material are wide rubber bands, but others things can be used: latex gloves, aluminum foil, steel wool. Make constant pressure towards the screw, and <strong>slowly</strong> turn the key until the screw is out.</li>
<li>Pliers: if you can see the head of the screw, try to firmly hold the head of the screw with pliers, and rotate the pliers until the screw is loose.</li>
</ol>
<div class="tip-callout">After removing the damaged screw please throw it away to make sure you will not use it again.</div>


How to remove a stripped screw

How to replace a hotend PTFE tube (MINI/MINI+)

How to access and clean the extruder-pulley (MINI/MINI+)

How to update firmware (MINI/MINI+)

How to trim PTFE tube - Original Prusa printers

How to replace a heaterblock/heatbreak (MINI/MINI+)

Replacing the PEI sheet on the (MK3S/MK3/MK2.5S/MK2.5)

How to replace a heatbed thermistor (MINI/MINI+)

How to replace a hotend thermistor (MINI/MINI+)

How to post-process the printed parts

How to replace a heatsink (MINI/MINI+)

Height adjustment of M.I.N.D.A./SuperPINDA sensor (MINI/+)

<ul>
<li>Improved homing algorithm</li>
<li>Improved dialogue for color change (M600)</li>
<li>Improved Wizard stability</li>
<li>Filament sensor ON/OFF setting kept after a reset</li>
</ul>


4.0.1

<ul>
<li>Minor update: Support for an MK3S LCD encoder</li>
</ul>


4.0.2

<ul>
<li>Jerk speeds fixed</li>
</ul>
<p>Contains all features and fixes introduced in the <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v4.0.3" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">previous release,</a> such as:</p>
<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Support for an MK3S encoder</li>
<li>Mesh Bed Levelling fixed</li>
<li>Fixed loaded filament information</li>
<li>Automatic filament sensor detection</li>
<li>Improved filament changes (M600)</li>
</ul>


4.0.4

<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect Local (WebUI)</li>
<li>Stop print function fixed</li>
<li>The printer is now locked (except Tune menu) during Remote print via OctoPrint (safety reasons)</li>
<li>Adjustment to Mesh Bed Levelling</li>
<li>The new color scheme for active button</li>
<li>Improved movement near the axis end</li>
<li>Revised file sorting</li>
<li>Adjustments to e-steps</li>
<li>Improved Z-axis self-test</li>
<li>Random screen freezing fixed</li>
<li>New EEPROM implementation</li>
</ul>


4.0.5

<ul>
<li>Updated texts to match the latest firmware</li>
</ul>


1.03

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li>Automatic print pause after an accidental USB drive removal. Resume print option is available after the USB drive is re-inserted.</li>
<li>Printer acoustic signalization - you can choose the level in Settings -&gt; Sound mode</li>
<li>Support for NTP servers for getting the current time (internet connection required)</li>
<li>Filament load/unload procedure adjusted</li>
<li>Preheat function improved</li>
<li>Tune menu extended with "LAN settings", "Version info" and "Sound mode" submenus</li>
<li>File browser improved</li>
<li>Horizontal scrolling text function added</li>
<li>Octoprint screen further improved</li>
<li>Faster print head heat-up process</li>
<li>Fixed bugs and minor improvements (see the full changelog)</li>
</ul>


4.1.0

<ul>
<li><strong>Firmware localized into 7 languages&nbsp;</strong>(English, French, Italian, German, Spanish, Czech, Polish)</li>
<li>New sound volume option</li>
<li>Pause print from USB (M601) fixed</li>
<li>Printer beeping in silent mode fixed</li>
</ul>


4.2.0

<ul>
<li>Random BSOD bug fixed</li>
</ul>


4.2.1

<ul>
<li>Changes related to MINI+ release</li>
</ul>


1.0.7

<ul>
<li>New graphics for Live adjust Z</li>
<li>Added support for PVB material</li>
<li>QR Error codes</li>
<li>Print sheet profiles</li>
<li>New fan management</li>
<li>Improved selftest and wizard</li>
<li>First layer calibration updated</li>
<li>The improved filament change process</li>
<li>More improvements and bug fixes</li>
</ul>


4.3.0

<ul>
<li>X-axis error during Wizard fixed</li>
<li>Safety timer not activated fixed</li>
</ul>


4.3.1

<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer 2.3.3
<ul>
<li>Patch release - fixing the bug in handling FDM multi-material project and configuration files</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>


2.3.3

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Upgraded USB drivers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Upgraded Newlib library</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">FatFs library upgrade</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Saving of self-test results</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0">Fixed bugs</li>
</ul>


4.3.2

<ul>
<li>Support for custom extruders</li>
<li>Thermal regulation for custom extruders</li>
<li>Extended print statistics</li>
<li>Nozzle pressurizing improved</li>
<li>Translations updated</li>
<li>BSOD caused by a broken thermistor fixed</li>
<li>Print timer fixed</li>
</ul>


4.3.3

<ul>
<li>Support for PrusaSlicer 2.4</li>
<li>Time Zones extended</li>
<li>Satin sheet profiles added</li>
</ul>


4.3.4

<ul>
<li>Multi-material painting</li>
<li>Improved supports and bridging</li>
<li>Shape gallery</li>
<li>Fuzzy skin</li>
<li>Windows dark mode</li>
<li>Brim for individual objects</li>
<li>Negative volumes</li>
<li>Automatic color change for logos and signs</li>
<li>Tip of the day notifications</li>
<li>Model simplification</li>
<li>Support for 3DLabPrint airplane models</li>
<li>New 3rd party printer profiles</li>
<li>…and more!</li>
</ul>


2.4.0

<ul>
<li>G-Code Substitutions</li>
<li>Added profiles for Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0</li>
<li>Added Artillery Hornet profile</li>
<li>Added RatRig V-Core and V-Minion bundle</li>
<li>Added Jubilee bundle</li>
</ul>


2.4.1

<ul class="p-rich_text_list p-rich_text_list__bullet" data-stringify-type="unordered-list" data-indent="0" data-border="0">
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Updated translations</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Snapmaker printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Added profiles for Zonestar printers</li>
<li data-stringify-indent="0" data-stringify-border="0">Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.4.2

<ul>
<li>Updates related to Printables.com</li>
<li>Several small changes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

1.09

<ul>
<li>New perimeter generator Arachne</li>
<li>STEP file format support</li>
<li>Lightning infill</li>
<li>Improved seam placement based on the visibility</li>
<li>Pressure equalizer</li>
<li>New printer and material profiles</li>
<li>Many bugfixes and smaller improvements</li>
<li>Offline unattended installation for mass deploys (in Drivers &amp; Apps package installator).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

2.5.0

<ul>
<li>Support for Wi-Fi (ESP-01 &amp; ESP-01S)</li>
<li>PrusaLink updated</li>
<li>Network menu updated</li>
<li>Networking improvements</li>
<li>GUI improvements</li>
<li>Selftest improvements</li>
<li>Known issues</li>
<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>
<p></p>

4.4.0


<ul>
<li>Wi-Fi auto-reconnect fixed</li>



<li>Improved Wi-Fi (ESP) flashing</li>



<li>RTC fixed</li>



<li>Additional hotend protection</li>



<li>UI fixes</li>



<li>New error code URL</li>



<li>Improved bootstrap</li>



<li>Known issues</li>
</ul>


4.4.1


<ul>
<li>Improved 'Monotonic lines' fill pattern</li>



<li>Improved Acceleration control</li>



<li>Specific object arrangement for XL</li>



<li>Original Prusa XL profiles</li>



<li>Updated translations</li>



<li>Bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.5.1


<ul>
<li>Original Prusa MK4 profiles</li>
</ul>


2.5.2


<ul>
<li>Organic supports</li>



<li>Automatic support painter</li>



<li>Text embossing tool</li>



<li>Improved cut tool</li>



<li>Adding connectors and dowel pins</li>



<li>Measurement tool</li>



<li>Dynamic overhang speed</li>



<li>Improved Ensure vertical shell thickness</li>



<li>Smart extending of sparse infill</li>
</ul>


2.6.0


<ul>
<li>New Arrange tool options</li>



<li>New Cut tool options</li>



<li>Per-symbol text projection on surface</li>



<li>Interlocking of painted areas for MMU printing</li>
</ul>


2.6.1


<ul>
<li>New SVG support</li>



<li>Binary G-Code (.bgcode) export support + conversion</li>



<li>Arc fitting support </li>
</ul>


2.7.0


<ul>
<li>Printing speed boost with Input Shaper and Pressure Advance (XL and MINI)</li>



<li>Major updates to network code; Instant Printing feature</li>



<li>Major updates to Prusa Connect and network communication</li>



<li>Introducing a new efficient open-source Binary G-code format</li>



<li>New useful pre-print screen for XL Multi-Tool printers</li>
</ul>


5.1.0


<ul>
<li>Binary G-code settings</li>



<li>Wipe tower weight</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.7.1


<ul>
<li>Cancel Object (MINI)</li>



<li>Sending crash dumps to Tech support</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.4</li>



<li>Firmware flashing updated</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>



<p></p>


5.1.2


<ul>
<li>Smarter color painting</li>



<li>Improved Color change</li>



<li>Ramping travel moves</li>



<li>SLA material overrides</li>
</ul>


2.7.2


<ul>
<li>Improvements to multi-material printing</li>



<li>Vase mode smoothing</li>



<li>Support for 3MF files generated in BambuStudio</li>



<li>Metadata with boundary polygon of each object</li>
</ul>


2.7.3


<ul>
<li>Objects from 3MFs generated by BambuStudio now retain multimaterial painting when loaded</li>



<li>Fixed a bug where downloading files from Printables did not work when enabled in Preferences</li>
</ul>


2.7.4


<ul>
<li>Stealth mode</li>



<li>Time Zone settings updated</li>



<li>Bed Level Correction</li>



<li>Revised Control menu</li>



<li>MCU temperature</li>



<li>Improvements by the Prusa community</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.0.0


<ul>
<li>Acceleration limit restored (MK4, MK3.9, MINI)</li>



<li></li>
</ul>


6.0.1


<ul>
<li>Improvements by Prusa community</li>
</ul>


6.0.2


<ul>
<li>Screenshot procedure fix (MINI)</li>
</ul>


6.0.3


<ul>
<li>Prusa Connect integration</li>



<li>Prusa Account integration</li>



<li>Improved UI</li>



<li>Improved G-code Viewer</li>



<li>New system profile updating system</li>



<li>Single Perimeter for top and bottom layers</li>



<li>Extended SLA layer separation configuration</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.0

6.0.4


<ul>
<li>Support for MK3.9S and MK3.5S printers</li>



<li>Numeric keyboard</li>



<li>Custom names for steel sheet</li>



<li>User-configurable hostname</li>



<li>Binary G-code check</li>



<li>ESP firmware flash during boot (MINI, MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>New bootloader 2.3.5</li>



<li>Network Status screen</li>



<li>Steel sheet name in footer (MK3.5/S)</li>



<li>Powered Z-motors during calibration procedure (MK3.5/S, MK3.9/S, MK4/S)</li>



<li>Default nozzle diameter set to 0.4 (XL)</li>



<li>Bug fixes</li>
</ul>


6.1.2


<ul>
<li>Improved menu bar, the menu no longer hides under a button</li>



<li>Two new parameters (Abrasive material and High flow nozzle) for G-Code checks</li>



<li>Improved automatic orientation of bridges</li>



<li>Number of bugfixes</li>
</ul>


2.8.1


<ul>
<li>Multiple beds and bulk export</li>



<li>Scarf seams</li>



<li>Printables integration</li>



<li>Paint-on fuzzy skin</li>



<li>Improvements in painting tools and multi-material slicing</li>



<li>Basic support for printing with different nozzle diameters</li>
</ul>


Original Prusa MINI+